Question about Kosciuszko NP and responsible bushwalking

[Kainas]

Planning a bushwalk in Kosciuszko NP, hoping to do the Main Range Track, with side trips to the Aussie 10, and a bit of overnight camping (for anyone who read my other thread, I decided that a reconnaissance trip was in order, so will be going with my 10yo daughter, and a couple of friends).

So, I am perplexed about how some threads talk about the responsibility of 'pack it out' (got it) and walking through puddles to avoid widening trails (we preach the same on MTB tracks). But I am not sure how the fits with then going completely off track to reach a peak.

Why is one okay, and the other not okay?

[Zapruda]

Great question.

You will find for the most part that there are already varying degrees of established footpads to most of the 10 peaks. The existence of these is something I have observed since this endeavour has become more popular... For the most part the vegetation that grows up there is fairly resistant. It handles being covered by 100's of kilos of snow each year and bounces back after the melt. This doesn't mean we shouldn't take care where we walk.

I guide up on the Main Range regularly, and I am very aware of my group’s impact up there. I make sure we don't walk through wet areas when possible . If it looks like the picture below, I avoid it. Sphagnum moss is incredibly sensitive.
I always try to aim for higher ground. Your feet stay dry, you don't step on the moss and the grass is easier to walk on. It may take a bit longer but often the effort is reduced. Basically, if it doesn't look like snow grass don't step on it.

Sphagnum.jpg (84.92 KiB) Viewed 19693 times

The next big one is to avoid the Windswept Feldmark found around Mt Northcote and Mt Lee . NPWS has made a real effort to get people away from it. If it looks like the below pic go back and find a way around it.

feldmark.jpg (25.98 KiB) Viewed 19693 times

There is certainly more but these are the big ones in my opinion. It will be quite obvious when you are up there.

[Kainas]

Thankyou, that is really helpful.

What is so fragile about the windswept feldmark? (I ask out of an educational curiosity, also because my 10yo will ask me when I explain it to her...).

We are headed to Mt Northcote, and have been advised to approach from the north and exit down (a visible track?) to the south-west (https://www.strava.com/routes/22883115).

[Zapruda]

Thankyou, that is really helpful.

What is so fragile about the windswept feldmark? (I ask out of an educational curiosity, also because my 10yo will ask me when I explain it to her...).

We are headed to Mt Northcote, and have been advised to approach from the north and exit down (a visible track?) to the south-west (https://www.strava.com/routes/22883115).

I'm no expert at all but as I understand it is because of how shallow the root system is of the plant that grows on those exposed areas. If it is kicked, trampled or shifted it can dislodge easily and cease growing.

Some good reading - https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/savi ... leID=20297
http://www.environment.gov.au/biodivers ... 072016.pdf

Yep, that’s the most direct route up Northcote. It doesn’t avoid the windswept feldmark. The "track" is intermittent at best. Just be careful and tread lightly. I personally think it would be better to avoid it all together and stick to the track below. Northcote, like many of the other "peaks" up there is really just a bump on the plateau. You are not going to get better or more unique views from there vs Carruthers for example. The 10 peaks walk is just a numbers game that people like to play. It doesn't sound as rounded and final doing Australia's 9 highest peaks I guess... There are far more interesting areas and rewarding views on Main Range in my opinion.

[GBW]

[Kainas]

Ah got it. I thought it was referring to the rock itself, but it is the vegetation that grows upon it that is the issue (well, I mean, duh now that I think about it).

We aren't really in this to bag peaks, more for excuses to venture off track a bit, camp in some interesting places etc. I don't feel a need to venture up Northcote (or even to go up the north side rather than the south-west) in order to say I did.

I would really love to go take a look at the Cootapatamba Hut (though not sure about the best way down to it). This whole trip is just an excuse to have a few nights away from housework and the 3yo, and a chance to get to know the area so I can bring the 3yo along next time. Hubby and I were looking at some of the huts and the Siren Song Tunnely (fascinating to him as he works underground), an annual trip to the area sounds lovely, there just seems so much to explore.

Funny, because I lived in Cooma for several years as a teenager, and only once do I recall driving past the NP toll booths (on my 13th Birthday I think).

[Zapruda]

Absolutely. There are endless opportunities to explore the Main Range and its only a very small part of the park. Further afield you have the Jagungal Wilderness, The Pilot Wilderness, Kiandra Goldfields and the Northern Frost Plain's. All beautiful.

The Opera House hut is one of those never again walks for me. More of a controlled freefall really.

Cootapatamba hut is worth the short detour. The surrounding area is lovely as well. Twin humps (1977) and the Swampy Plain river are beautiful. Getting down to the hut is easy. There is a footpad and some old snow poles to follow. Here is the rough approach.

Cootapatambahut.PNG (846.17 KiB) Viewed 19640 times

[Kainas]

Oh well then I will definitely make the detour. It is all a bit exciting, and I am enjoying the unknown (as much as I generally hate the unknown). Trying to work out which route to take, and what points of interest to visit (E.g. Ram's Head North, Ram's Head, should we add a loop down Dead Horse Gap along the river to Thredbo and then back up the chairlift, etc. ), it is all a bit exciting. It has been a few years since I planned a good multi-day trip, and the last one involved kids and leaping-frogging a car.

[Kainas]

I have loads of questions in prep for the walk. Hoping I might get some answers here. (We are doing the main range anti-clockwise, and incorporating the Aussie 10ish).

#1 Doing the track anti-clockwise, how close can I camp to Mt Kosciuszko? I am looking at a few options, one of which involves a late start on Day 1, probably only make it to Mt Twynam (how is that pronounced?), so Day 2 we should get pretty much to Mt Kosciuzko... which makes camping close and doing a sunrise up there sound like a very tempting idea.

#2 My map says South Rams Head has nice views, is it worth the trek? I was going to head along the ridge line from North Rams Head, Rams Head, then return to the main track, but I am playing with the idea of adding an extra day into the trip.

#3 Is Dead Horse Gap track accessible from Rams Head (or Sth Rams Head), or should I return via Nth Rams Head to the main track?

#4 Also seeking advice on good camping locations.

#5... More questions will be coming I am sure!!

[mys]

Check this page regarding camping in alpine area: https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/sa ... ry-camping

There are also restrictions within 200m of the following:
- Crackenback Chairlift to Mount Kosciuszko walkway
- Summit of Mount Kosciuszko and Rawson Pass
- etc ...

I like to camp around Mt Townsend.

[Kainas]

#5 Are we crazy doing this during the xmas / New Year period? What kind of numbers will we expect to see. My friend is throwing crazy numbers at me, but it can't be that bad can it? Especially off the main track?

[johnw]

#5 Are we crazy doing this during the xmas / New Year period? What kind of numbers will we expect to see. My friend is throwing crazy numbers at me, but it can't be that bad can it? Especially off the main track?

I was going to answer one of your other posts but I'll do it here (maybe try and keep it to a single topic as it all revolves around the same trip/similar questions).

You are not crazy but you may see a lot of others at times, particularly the hordes going up to Kosci via the walkway from the Thredbo chairlift.
Similar story for the summit road from Charlotte Pass and slightly less the main range/lakes foot track, which makes up the rest of the circuit.
It really depends on where you choose to go. I've often gone wandering out into the Rams Heads and not seen another soul all day.
Similar story as soon as you venture off the main track and go out to places like Townsend, Twynam or beyond. You may still encounter others but only occasionally in my experience.

I know the main range quite well, have done many long day hikes during that same period in summer, both on and off track.
It's one of my absolute favourite places in the world. That said I've yet to actually take the tent up there and camp, so any comments on camping are based on observation/discussion with others camping who I've crossed paths with. Hoping to do a 3 day circuit to Jagungal in the coming months but that's another topic.

It's important to note that it can be very windy up on the main range. As mys said, camping near Mt Townsend may be an option. The saddle just below the peak looks good as long as you stay out of the Lake Albina catchment. But given you are taking young kids I would probably opt for slightly more sheltered sites down in Wilkinsons Valley below.

Twynam is that pronounced TW-EYE-NAM (well, close enough).

#2 My map says South Rams Head has nice views, is it worth the trek? I was going to head along the ridge line from North Rams Head, Rams Head, then return to the main track, but I am playing with the idea of adding an extra day into the trip.

Yes, as long as you are comfortable navigating off track. Be careful with maps if going there as some of them incorrectly show a 2052m peak as South Rams Head, which is incorrect. That one is informally known as the Southerly Rams Head and is more impressive. The true South Rams Head is about 1km south of that, and lower at 1951m. Both peaks have summit trig markers and you can see each from the other, if the weather is clear. The views are similar from both. Neither Rams Head (big round lump) or North Rams Head (very distinctive rocky nunatak) have trigs.

#3 Is Dead Horse Gap track accessible from Rams Head (or Sth Rams Head), or should I return via Nth Rams Head to the main track?

Maybe, and probably, depending on which track/route you are referring to. It is much easier to find your way uphill to the Southerly Rams Head and/or South Rams Head from Dead Horse Gap. That is more of a route than track, overgrown in places and can be indistinct at times. There is no signage or markers. You need some nav skills and I've always found it harder to find the way going downhill. But there is also the formal DHG track from near the car park below Dead Horse Gap that meets the Kosci walkway near the top of the Thredbo chairlift (also joins the Thredbo River track at the bottom). I've sometimes done a loop starting from DHG visiting all the Rams Heads, back to the Kosci walkway then down this easier track. You could potentially sight the Southerly RH from Rams Head, walk to it, then down the ridge to South RH. For a competent navigator the quickest way from there down to DHG is trackless until you can pick up the informal route. I can't be more specific due to forum rules but happy to provide more detail via PM.

One last thought based on your questions here and on other threads. There is a really good book/field guide titled "Snowy Mountains Walks", by the Geehi Bushwalking Club. Not sure what edition they are up to but the latest I have is the eighth edition. Worth getting a copy as it covers the area well including some concise topo maps with suggested routes and a lot of good advice, including safety considerations, and walking off-track in specific main range localities in an environmentally responsible manner.

[rcaffin]

#5 Are we crazy doing this during the xmas / New Year period?

Probably. If it is fine and sunny there will be thousands of tourists around Kossie (not much of an exaggeration either). Unfortunately, there will also be millions of very aggressive bitey flies.
If the weather is bad, you will need good gear and to camp well below the ridgeline. We have had hail and sleet on Xmas day once.
Lovely country though.

Cheers
Roger

[north-north-west]

We have had hail and sleet on Xmas day once.

First time camping on the Main Range I walked from Abbott to Thredbo on Xmas Day in a snowstorm with minimal visibility. Ah, them was the days.

There is a really good book/field guide titled "Snowy Mountains Walks", by the Geehi Bushwalking Club. Not sure what edition they are up to but the latest I have is the eighth edition.

Good to see that's still available. Eighth edition was just released when I got my copy. It's helped with some wonderful jaunts.

From Dead Horse Gap directly up to one of the southern Ramsheads (the 2052m peak) is pretty easy going, but not sure if it's suitable for young kids. Makes a great loop if you go down the DHG track, up the road a few hundred metres, then follow the spur up. As has been said, if you don't know the area, it's best to do it in that direction. The navigation from there along the ridges over Ramshead and North Ramshead is easy, and past North Ramshead you get a good view of the lines over to Cootapatamba Hut or more directly north to the lake.
Get some weird reactions from the tourist hordes if you then climb directly from Cootapatamba to Kosciuszko, but.

[Kainas]

Thank you for all the info. I am still just planning out the route, still not sure how many days I have to work with, and still not sure exactly what day we are leaving, but trip planning is my favourite thing to do - especially when we actually get to go on the adventure!!

My nav skills are reasonable (We orienteer as a sport, and I have done several rogaines and adventure races in which I was the navigator) and I feel competant enough to attempt this, and hopefully competant enough to recognise if it gets out of my depth. I have ordered two maps, and just last night I read about that guidebook (on this forum, I bookmarked it so I could order the book this morning (I just had a look, it was you who recommended the book in the other thread too ), hopefully it will arrive before the holidays.

The info about the area around Rams Head is very helpful thankyou. Looking more closely at the map in that area, I think coming down from South Rams Head I pretty much bypass the formal DHG track, which isn't necessarily what I want to do. Plus, based on the map, the path skirts near rougher terrain that could end up painful. I find walking on a track is a pleasant experience in which you can somewhat switch the nav off and just enjoy the views, navigating off track requires a lot more looking at the map, and looking at the terrain details (navigating is pleasurable of course, but it is the type of pleasure that I don't need to drive 7hrs to get.).

[rcaffin]

If you want to do the Main Range Loop, then there is a new track the whole way, and I strongly recommend you stay on it. Parts of it are hardened with rock slabs, and the bits around the feldmark are actually a very carefully installed steel boardwalk. You would be challenged to get lost on the Loop these days, in most any weather. Kids should have no trouble. Parks had to install the hardened track because of the huge numbers of walkers doing the Loop and the damage that was being done to some threatened species. I am not thrilled by its presence, but the alternative of a trashed environment is much worse.

8705.jpg (82.6 KiB) Viewed 19457 times

The track around the rocky hillside above Lake Albina remains a rocky track, which I think is good. It is 'tough enough' to take the traffic.

8719.jpg (96.71 KiB) Viewed 19457 times

Just remember to take full storm gear for everyone. We have had sleet and hail on Xmas Day up there. Yeah, I'm serious. Kids are especially susceptible to hypothermia.

Cheers
Roger

[Kainas]

#6 Why is anti-clockwise the direction generally considered best? Wouldn't that make all the river crossings on day 1? Wouldn't it be better to get wet feet just prior to returning to the car (and warm socks!)?

[johnw]

#6 Why is anti-clockwise the direction generally considered best? Wouldn't that make all the river crossings on day 1? Wouldn't it be better to get wet feet just prior to returning to the car (and warm socks!)?

That one is the only river crossing where you could possibly get wet feet (if you slip). The other two are on road bridges.
Going clockwise means a very steep walk uphill to Charlotte Pass to finish.
Going anti-clockwise means a very easy downhill finish on an old historic road for the last ~7 kms. I also think the views are much better going in that direction.
The only place where Kosciuskzo looks like a proper mountain is when seen looking south from the Albina high pass.

[rcaffin]

Go in either direction, as it suits you.
Limited number of camping places tho - mainly Wilkinson Ck. That can affect planning.

Going clockwise means a very steep walk uphill to Charlotte Pass to finish.
Oh, come on! It's not at all difficult, and it is on a solid track.
Just keep reminding yourself (and others) of the goodies in store Real Soon Now.

Cheers
Roger

[johnw]

Going clockwise means a very steep walk uphill to Charlotte Pass to finish.
Oh, come on! It's not at all difficult, and it is on a solid track.

True Roger, it's a paved footpath except the bits that have broken up. I've done it in both directions numerous times.
I'm probably being lazy , but more thinking about one or more younger kids in the party; an easy walk down the road might be a happier finish.

[rcaffin]

Ha! The kids will be no problem at all.
They will surge up that hill at a great speed - because they have been promised icecreams at Perisher.
(Unless Perisher is shut, in which case they can wait until Jindi.)
The adults - more difficult. A nice expresso maybe?
Cheers
Roger

[outjb]

Hi Kainas
Has this trip happened yet? I just came across the post and probably could have added some reassurance about the trip.

Navigation up there is relatively straight forward due to the lack of trees and obvious ridgelines/features, especially given you have some good experience with nav. It can be pretty much done with the map and reading the very obvious terrain.

4-5 years ago I did the Main Range circuit in a day (on track) with my 11yo son. We did it anti-clockwise in rainy/misty weather and he did it ok. Last 1-2km back along the Summit Road were a little slow with tired legs - made me glad we did it anti-clockwise that day. So depending on your kids' pack weight (and mental resilience!) it's not too hard a walk.

A few years later we set out with some other families to do 5 days out there in early December. We walked up around 7 of the 10 taller peaks. Ended up cancelling out after 3 days due to 100kmh winds and rain/lightning, which was fine. It's just worth keeping your mind open to the possibility you might need to bail at some point due to weather. Some of the weather adults might put up with is likely to weigh a little more heavily on the kids (physically and mentally).

We walked from the top of the Thredbo chairlift, camped at Wilkinsons and used it as a base camp - much easier than moving camp each day. Covered Ramshead main and north + Mt K on our way out on Day 1, the Townsend loop on Day 2, then headed off on a day out-and-back towards Twynam on Day 3 before being turned back by the wind.

I also wouldn't worry about the river crossings...as someone said above there is only one without a bridge and most of the time you just step across some stepping stones without even taking your shoes off.

I love the off-track walking up there....easy nav, getting away from the crowds, great views, and plenty of options to make up the exact route as you walk along and see the lay of the vegetation/rocks.

Hope it either went well or goes well!