L-G, G'day.
I've done the Hume and Hovell Walking Track taking in parts of the advised cycle route because I could navigate closer to Hume and Hovell's historic route. I did parts of the walking track as recently as two weeks ago. The historic route at Waroo I did last October. The bit of walking track that I did two weeks ago was from the Fitzpatrick Track head towards the Nottingham Hills. I was originally going to ride to Micalong Swamp but I was thwarted by the rain approaching Nottingham Station. I still have the original basic track maps from 20+ years ago, and the slick coloured ones used nowadays. Although it is called a walking track, one can still hike a bike on it ... and hike one will.
Do you realise that the HHWT does't follow Hume and Hovels historic route faithfully in places (?) but we can. With the flooding of the The Murrumbidgee River Valley at Warroo and Taemus, flooding of the Goodradigbee River Valley and Tumut River at Blowering Dam I wonder why it is called the HHWT in places. Between Tumbarumba (Henry Angel Track Head) and the Hume Reservoir (Lake Hume) the walking track has little relationship to Hume and Hovell's actual route, although the track crosses the historic route three times here.
These types of trails should be done the way that they were intended to be done. They are routes for exploration, done over time and what is off the trail is just as important as the trail. Get the maps (if you don't have them already) and then tune the route to where you want to go. Also take in the features like Pompeys Pillar, avoid the pine plantations as much as poss' and check out the world renowned Careys Cave, and leave the trail and climb Jumpers Hill. You'll enjoy a couple of swinging bridges built by Australian Army Engineers ... although one of the low level bridges at Browns Creek requires an alternate route at the moment.
The Hume and Hovell Walking Track isn't just through pristine and prime forests nor beside trackless wilderness (as you have mentioned) but it certainly is in stunningly beautiful country giving the same feel. If you take one step off the track you could be seriously bush bashing. The HHWT matches the BNT for repetitive climbing in wild country and like the BNT you will get to see the working life of rural New South Wales at times. Also, like the BNT the HHWT is I think a pack-horse route, or closer to a multi-purpose trail than just a walking track. The walking tracks are purpose cut and benched. Access to water is a day apart and the highest point on the track is 1100m.
The reason why I did so much of the cycle route was because I could link the Travelling Stock Reserves along the way and at least see the original vegetation that Hume and Hovell would have seen. The TSRs are the original vegetation of Australia and remain relatively undisturbed since European settlement. In the Tumut region at times the pine plantations are on one side of the track while the forests are on the other side, I prefer the bush. This is crazy having plantations on the route and also the route could have been better negotiated with property owners in places, using Crown Land easments. Grazing has had a major impact, there are lots of sheep on the route across the grazing lands.
The Track Heads and campsites are a feature of the trail. Many are named after the six convicts that accompanied Hume and Hovell. The Track Heads are well maintained with excellent facilities but not facilities for re-suppling. The campsites have an awning and table and pit toilet. If you avoid the holidays you will certainly enjoy the isolation. In Wee Jasper there is no chance for resupplying, the general store has closed, sadly. Perhaps posting supplies ahead to the Wee Jasper Tavern (open Wednesdays to Sundays if not staying in the accommodation) could be arranged or supplies posted to the National Parks Rangers Station at Billy Grace Reserve. Resupplying from a place like Tumut or other towns requires leaving the trail, especially if travelling South to North posting ahead to Wee Jasper, is the go.
Would I do the Hume and Hovell again, most definitely in early spring through to mid spring. Fewer insects then. In the grazing lands the flies could kidnap you when it is warmer ... and they will.
The old maps are good because they show Hume and Hovell's route where they went up spurs, across ridges and down spurs. When you are in the field you can see where they did go, and at times there are gates on their original route. The new maps show where the cartographer found the quickest way to draw the route and changed the historic route in his or her expediency. In the new map collection is also a description of what happened to the Expedition. Some of the dead ends that thwarted the journey at times are well worth seeing like Micalong Falls and where Burrinjuck Dam is between the peaks of Black Andrew and Barren Jack.
The old maps were for serious walkers, they are very basic. The new maps are well detailed but you will need the topos to show the pine plantations if you want to avoid them ... or identify them on Google Earth.
Some images taken on Hume and Hovell's original route going East to West from near where Hume had an outstation not far from Gunning at Lerida Creek (Fish River).
The open grassy woodlands of the Yass Plains east of Warroo. Still showing the effects from 16 years of drought. Fitting because the Expedition suffered hardship during the drought of 1824.
Crossing Warroo Creek. The rotten guard rails are life threatening, but the stone masons' craftsmanship in the bridge below is well worth seeing. Hume and Hovell not far from here (5km further West), turned a wagon into a punt by removing the wheels and sheathing the shell in a tarpaulin and made their first crossing of the Murrumbidgee River.
The anti-clockwise spiralling synclines at Little Plain.
The unformed road at Sutton Creek Travelling Stock Reserve. It was here that Hume and Hovell rested on the 23-24 October 1824. On the 25 October they camped on Sugarloaf Creek. There is also a TSR on Sugarloaf Mountain. If you delve into the history of the expedition, you will find that many things on the trail that go basically go unnoticed are historically significant.
Dropping off Narrangullen Mountain to the Goodradigbee River. Here Hume and Hovell went to the northern end of Goodradigbee Mountain on the right horizon and then returned along the valley towards Wee Jasper.
The now flooded Goodradigbee River Valley looking North past Wee Jasper Bridge to Codys Ridge and Codys Range. Photo taken at Carey Reserve. It sure rains a lot nowadays.
The original route across what is now South Wee Jasper Station.
Looking back to the Fitzpatrick Track Head below Goodradigbee Mountain.
You have now finished Hume and Hovell's original route to Wee Jasper Mountain (not the H&H walking track to Fitzpatrick Track Head) shown on the Map #1
Cooma Cottage to Fitzpatrick Track Head.
Three shots from when I finished my 1st trip, on H&H's original route into Albury.
Three White Lights (Albury Flour Mills), Nine Intermediate Egrets,(Hume Reservoir) and Parchment Overshadows(Tunnel Road).
http://wildwassa.deviantart.com/gallery ... 4#/d2v1a8qhttp://wildwassa.deviantart.com/gallery ... 2#/d1rhfa6http://wildwassa.deviantart.com/gallery ... 4#/d2vvg0qIf you want specific details about anywhere on the walking track, let me know. Don't think that you won't go through serious country or enjoy walking along the quiet back country roads. I assure you that you will. Perhaps do a week long walk to see if this type of journeying suits you.
Country link has a bus service to Tumut, Adelong, Wondalga, Batlow, Laurel Hill and Tumbarumba. Perhaps consider doing Fitzpatrick Trackhead to Snowy Mountains Highway (10 km South of Tumut), 78 km. Blowering Campsite to Henry Angel Track Head, 102 km or Tunnel Road to the Hovell Tree in Albury, 73 km. Paddys River Dam to Lankey Creek Campsite, is 90 km.
There is another way to travel on these back country roads, that I prefer, where I might see as many as 2 or 3 cars in a day. Sawyers Gully Road.
Certainly don't think of these quiet back country roads on the HHWT, resemble tourist routes. The busiest road on the route is Black Range Road after leaving Yass, from Yass to Burrinjuck ... if you can call it busy.
Three things to note;
Between Lankey Creek and Lake Hume the walking track is closed from 1 December until 28 February because of the high risk of bush fires. The boat service to cross Lake Burrinjuck will not be running until some time in late January or early February 2012. In the map kit there is a stack of info on transportation services and commercial accommodation available. Also the guest houses close to the route, could be good places to post-ahead supplies. For the latest track updates or track closures contact the Track Coordinator Warwick Hull (02) 6937 2700.
Warren.