Wonnangatta Circuit (Speculation - Razor - Viking)

[CaptainC]

Has anyone done this circuit recently? I heard from a guy who did it in March that the section over Viking was badly overgrown with bushfire re-growth. Lots of saplings which have just about obliterated the track and even the campsite in the saddle. Also access to water from the campsite was supposed to be difficult.

[pete0762]

I have done the AAWT section between Howitt to Mt Hotham in March 2011, which includes this section across the Viking. And yes this area between Catherine Saddle and Viking is badly overgrown and particularly from the turn off toward the Razor to Viking Saddle. However I never lost the "track", but it's hard bush bashing work. I did not camp at Viking Saddle but it would be OK to do so and water should not too hard to find in these wet conditions. I camped just east of Mt Dispair and easily found water in the nearest creek, even though a bit of a bush-bash to get there through re-growth. If you are heading into Wonongatta Valley via South Viking, the area may be quite overgrown in some sections as well.

With a good GPS including detailed topo maps and tracks it should be very well manageable, even though hard work at times.

cheers
Peter

[ryantmalone]

John Chapman has an update for the Australian Alps Walking Track book that reflects that the bushfire regrowth between Catherine Saddle and Barry Saddle is so dense, that it essentially has no track.

I'd trust that. Last time I walked through that area (well before the fires), it was hard enough to navigate, and could imagine it being quite a challenge now with all that low level growth, which was already tough.

[juz]

Hi,

I am just back from a 4 day circuit walk in this area at the start of January. I walked the following route: Howitt Road -> Mac Springs -> Mt Howitt -> Crosscut Saw -> Mt Speculation -> Catherine Saddle -> Mt Despair -> The Razor -> The Viking -> South Viking -> Wonnangatta River -> Zeka Spur Track -> Old Zeka Spur Track -> back across Clover Plain to the Car.
This route is described in John Chapmans "Bushwalking In Australia" and a couple of old Wild mags have good info in them as well. The whole route is also shown well on the Bush Maps Victoria map. Not my first time out on Howitt, Spec etc, but my first visit to The Razor and Viking.

I loved the walk, and thoroughly enjoyed my time out on the trail. I don't think there could be a better time to do it. The whole area is stunning up there at the minute. Absolutely beautiful. I thought that I should perhaps add some up to date details to the discussion. I can post photos and more of a trip report later, if people are interested. Perhaps don't read the following notes if you are not into plot spoilers.

Track/Route Condition
At present, the whole walk is easily navigable. I headed out with map, track notes and compass. I only used the map and compass once. For the all but a hand full of sections the track was easy to follow. I think that perhaps John Chapman may have been on the AAWT component recently adding new track markers.

The route from Mt Spec to The Razor, had an easy to follow foot track/pad the whole way, and the undergrowth was relatively open. In the couple of spots where the foot track fades a little there was always a well placed AAWT triangle, or a cairn to lead the way. This section was a beautiful walk.

From The Razor to the Viking Saddle was still easy to navigate, the foot pad can be followed the whole way. However, for 60% of this hour of walking the regrowth (euc sapplings) is very thick and well over head height. It doesn't make for very interesting walking, but it is still easy to follow the foot pad.

From the Viking Saddle to the Viking is initially (perhaps 30 or 40 minutes) through thick regrowth as per the last section. The track is still easy to follow, and once out of the trees this section is magnificent. The climb up the 'chimney' to the summit is beautiful, through amazing terrain.

The foot pad fades a bit once you leave the AAWT, as do the Yellow Triangles. However, the route across to South Viking is quite obvious, the under growth is grassy, there are perhaps 20 odd cairns and a foot pad that comes and goes. So it is very straight forward and very nice walking.

The only time I reached for the Map and Compass was 10 or 20 minutes into the decent down to the Wonnangata. This was to confirm the chosen spur was the correct one. Excluding the last 200 or 300 vertical metres, this spur is a beautiful good route to follow. There are cairns periodically, and the foot pad can be followed easily enough for most of the way. This must have been one of the nicest spurs I have ever been on. Rocky at times, grassy at other times, beautiful and green. However, for the last portion of the decent the undergrowth gets quite thick and the last 10 minutes is very thick. However, it is still easy to stay on the crest of the spur and before you know it you pop out into the little campsite.

The climb up to the car involved 5 or so kms of boring road bashing along Zeka Spur Track. This was a drag, and if I had my time again I would follow the alternative route described in John Chapmans notes. There is no longer a gate (or at least not one I saw) where the old track leaves the road. However, there is a cairn and the track is obvious, even if slowly getting overgrown. From here the track is easy to follow, mostly through grass, although there were a few scrubby sections. Also, there were lots of trees down in this area, all happening to fall over the old track. Thus, I left the old track often, but it was always easy to find again.

I would be an idiot to recommend you do this walk if you don't feel comfortable with a map and compass, and are skilled at reading terrain. At present though, navigation and route finding is very cruisy in my opinion. I don't own a GPS, so I cannot ever imagining needing one, and I certainly didn't need one here.

Water
Water, Water everywhere. The wonders of a wet year. The country is beautiful because of this as well. Water was available at all campsites. There was water just down from the saddle east of Mt Despair (as mentioned above, some scrub bashing involved), there was water about 250m from Viking Saddle (eastish on a well formed foot pad). As to how long will these last? I don't have a crystal ball, but both had a good supply of water. The Viking Saddle is still a really good campsite - nice grassy clearing, and magnificant views of the Viking cliffs.

Well, thats all for now. This was a beautiful walk. I loved the whole lot. I did it in 4 fairly short days. Provided you are fit, you could easily fit more walking in each day. However, why would you want to rush through such an amazing area. The country is stellar up there at present. I would recommend this beautiful walk.

Peace,

Justin.

[ryantmalone]

The route from Mt Spec to The Razor, had an easy to follow foot track/pad the whole way, and the undergrowth was relatively open. In the couple of spots where the foot track fades a little there was always a well placed AAWT triangle, or a cairn to lead the way. This section was a beautiful walk.

I was reading today that there has been some track work done in the section between Catherine Saddle and Barry Saddle, mainly cutting through fallen logs and replacing the yellow AAWT markers, which should definitely make it a whole lot easier to navigate for sure. I remember in around 98 or 99 going through there when there were no yellow markers (from memory), and it was easy enough until you got to the Razor, but could imagine it being significantly easier with markers now and minor clearing.

[bernieq]

Hi,

I've walked this circuit twice (once in each direction) as a 3-day in Nov 2009 and a more leisurely 4-day walk in Jan 2011. Also, I've just walked (Nov 2011) - as part of the AAWT - from Mt Skene to Mt St Bernard (the section discussed here being from Mt Spec to the Viking).

In the 10 months between visits to this area, there was dramatic change in the section from the Razor to the Viking chute - the track has gone from thick re-growth but easily discerned path - to very very dense 2+m tall re-growth where the path was frequently obliterated. The re-growth is Davesia sp. - grows to 3m, has broad flat leaves (often mistaken for a wattle) and 1-2cm thick stems. When wet, it bends over down the slope making pushing up a hill very demanding - certainly more easily negotiated when dry.

As at Nov 2011 : from Catherine saddle to near the summit of Mt Despair, the track is overgrown but relatively easily followed - expect travel times to be longer. There is some re-growth on the descent to the first saddle (but not an issue). From there to the Razor, the track is unchanged - variously rocky, steep, slippery, scrubby - but generally easily followed. However the main difficulties begin on the descent into the first saddle after the Razor. From here to the Viking saddle, the re-growth is thick and unrelenting - one can follow the track but the slog is long and slow, particularly on the uphill bits. The Viking saddle is clear and access to water in the gully is no problem. However, the re-growth begins immediately on the ascent and continues until the final climb to the chute. Beyond this point, the climb to the Viking summit is unchanged.

Just a note about AAWT track marking through the Viking Wilderness Area - the whole section from Catherine saddle to Barry saddle has been re-marked with AAWT yellow triangles (and a few older AWT ones too!) - very helpful in these re-growth conditions which will persist for 5 or so years until the over-story thickens and shades out the under-story. As at Dec 2011, no track clearing had been done in this area but some has been completed beyond Barry saddle (still lots remaining to do, though :)

[north-north-west]

Just a note about AAWT track marking through the Viking Wilderness Area - the whole section from Catherine saddle to Barry saddle has been re-marked with AAWT yellow triangles (and a few older AWT ones too!) - very helpful in these re-growth conditions which will persist for 5 or so years until the over-story thickens and shades out the under-story. As at Dec 2011, no track clearing had been done in this area but some has been completed beyond Barry saddle (still lots remaining to do, though

But it's supposed to be unmarked through the Wilderness section.

[wildlight]

Hi Juz

Please by all means, post photos and report. They'd be most welcome, your post was a pleasure to read.

Cheers

Wildlight

[capelsound]

Has anyone done the circuit in two days? Howitt c/park/spec/Viking/wonangatta/howitt c/park.

We are going to give it a shot on the weekend. Leaving car park at 0600. (with a spare day upmour sleeves)

[wildlight]

Has anyone done the circuit in two days? Howitt c/park/spec/Viking/wonangatta/howitt c/park.

We are going to give it a shot on the weekend. Leaving car park at 0600. (with a spare day upmour sleeves)

Hi capelsound

Maybe someone with turbo legs like north-north-west may have... but nobody I've heard of?! (recently).

In earlier days, a group would meet once a year to do a walk from King River to Koonika, Speculation, Howitt, King Billies, Bluff and back to their cars in a day and it was, a 22 hour epic, they were all like greyhounds, slim, trim, fit and in their prime. I encountered them 2 years in a row, as I was on different stages of various walks, working out whether I would walk 5k or 8k that day... the embarrassment of it all!

One of the members of that group had in fact done the walk you describe, in 2 days. He camped at Viking Saddle, if you could call a 5 hour sleep camping...

These guys picked it with the conditions, choosing to do their walks only when Alpine weather was right, and in the right season etc etc- they were very exact in their approach to it.

Mindful of this, you'd probably want to aim for a camp at Viking Saddle, or perhaps between Mt Despair and The Razor. Be aware of water- carrying more slows you down- but saves you search and procurement time. There are spots which have water, even in drier conditions, but they are off-track and will only add to the time spent not covering forward distance. With fitness and lightweight gear (ultra lightweight..?)! you'd probably do it- some of the walk would be in darkness for sure.

It might be worth mentioning that it would be prudent to have a vehicle capable of driving out if the forecast snow this weekend, did in fact fall...

I don't expect there would be "heaps", but a couple of spots on the road don't need much snow to get "interesting" in 2WD bubble type cars or utes, which have no weight in the back. Especially if you emerge late in the day, and the road east of the *&%$#! Neck, and around Lost Plain ices up.

Please let us know how it all went, if you can stand still long enough to snap some photos, they would be appreciated too!

Safe Steps

WildLight

[dplanet]

Hi Juz

Please by all means, post photos and report. They'd be most welcome, your post was a pleasure to read.

Cheers

Wildlight

Did the circuit some years ago in mid November. Started rather late due to hours of driving from Melbourne SouthEast; therefore, spent the first night at Valejo Gantner Hut which was shared among three of us. The other two were a couple from Geelong (from memory). It snowed during the night and the morning after and snowed lightly enough for me to have a go and an opportunity for snow photos in late season. Here are a few taken on the solo traverse.

[MartyGwynne]

In my opinion it would be a bad weekend to do it weather wise.
But if you are fit and able enough to have done such walks before and are very good at navigation....
Give it a shot and see how you go, don't be afraid of turning back.

[wildlight]

dplanet,

those first two images are a line-call for the best of three. The misty one of the tree works well- especially with the bit of walking track curved and showing. The second one of the crosscut saw- the gestalt imagery (look up wikipedia for the best definition), involving the three dead trees working with three of the snow capped peaks, makes for a strong composition also.

Without the curved walking track present in photo1, the winner would be photo2. However...

Ok, as a tie breaker- I recruited Mrs to cast her vote.

She pointed out the gullies on the south west flank of the cross cut saw, how they make for pleasing lines working well with the trees... so the crosscut saw image gets the prize.

Thanks for posting, always a pleasure to see a slightly different take on a subject which must surely occupy terabytes of space on hard drives all over the place.

Let's hope capelsound gets in and gets out with images on memory card.

Keep the camera battery warm capelsound!

Safe steps

WildLight

[capelsound]

Hey what's the worst thing that could happen.........

[dplanet]

Be aware that Wonnongatta River could be high and fast flowing.

[wildlight]

Hey what's the worst thing that could happen.........

The wind blows and the snow sprinkles down... I reckon just do it. The bureau seem to be over forecasting precipitation lately, less falls than they predict. The 'gatta river won't be drastic if it is up- not like a huge spring thaw or anything. You'll be fine.

Safe Steps

WildLight

The worse thing that could happen?

Camera battery goes flat!!

Or ... you leave memory card at home...

[capelsound]

Failed

[wildlight]

Tell us more capelsound- we've all had trips not go to plan. Sometimes them's the ones that make the best stories.

Safe Steps

WildLight

[capelsound]

Well things got off to a bad start on the way up when we hit a deer (very big) and smashed a few lights on the car. Then to make matters worse a few red necks set up camp at the howitt car park and started shooting and playing loud music. We moved. Then ( they say things happen in threes) we made an amateurs mistake and started to walk on Saturday morning at 0600hrs. Whilst it was great walking through the snow gums in the pre dawn light, what we did not think of was ice.

We had worked out in our planning that to complete the circuit in two days we needed to make Mac springs by 0700, which we did. Our next target was mt spec by 10:30. Wegot there at 12. The ice killed us. Slippery, dangerous etc. we had lunch, weighed up our options and turned back. Spent the night at Mac springs talking about next time.

Still a great walk.

[wildlight]

That's a mutha of an epic capelsound- at least you got out there in one piece- how did you go driving to Howitt carpark with headlights damaged?

Getting to Speculation by midday was a feat in itself- ice or not! It's a decent walk! And to walk BACK to maccy springs the same day- ugh, I shudder at the thought.

Any photos?

Thanks for the update

Safe Steps

Wildlight

[capelsound]

We hit the deer near howitt hut, so we were pretty close.

It really a great walk. If we didn't have the headlight damage I think we probably would of pushed on to Viking saddle for sat night and then back to car sunday. However it would have been dark by the time we got out.

[madmacca]

Just completed this circuit over cup weekend. Catherine Saddle to the Viking has been recently cleared, and is VERY easy to follow (there are some lightly regrown sections to the east of Mt Despair that weren't cleared, but they didn't really need it).

However, the bottom 200 m down to the Wonnangatta are currently a nightmare - extremely thick regrowth, and no hope of following a track. Basically a case of just plunging blindly downhill. Old Zeka Track back towards Mac Springs has a lot of new (and older) deadfall which slows progress, but the track can be identified easily enough.

[ryantmalone]

Just completed this circuit over cup weekend. Catherine Saddle to the Viking has been recently cleared, and is VERY easy to follow (there are some lightly regrown sections to the east of Mt Despair that weren't cleared, but they didn't really need it).

However, the bottom 200 m down to the Wonnangatta are currently a nightmare - extremely thick regrowth, and no hope of following a track. Basically a case of just plunging blindly downhill. Old Zeka Track back towards Mac Springs has a lot of new (and older) deadfall which slows progress, but the track can be identified easily enough.

If this is the case, I might just have to make some plans for Labor Day or Easter to finally knock off these two.

Been in the area back in the late 90's, but the scrub was terrible at the time, and slowed us too much to get to the Viking and back from Spec in a day.

[madmacca]

Yeah, doable in a day at present. Long day, although perhaps easier if you are only carrying a day pack? Take some extra water bottles to fill and stash at Viking Saddle, so that you only have to do one water run, and pick them up on your way back through. And as long as you make Catherine Saddle by nightfall, Catherine back to Spec would be doable in the dark in a pinch.

[ryantmalone]

Yeah, doable in a day at present. Long day, although perhaps easier if you are only carrying a day pack? Take some extra water bottles to fill and stash at Viking Saddle, so that you only have to do one water run, and pick them up on your way back through. And as long as you make Catherine Saddle by nightfall, Catherine back to Spec would be doable in the dark in a pinch.

I'd probably take my time and stay a day at Viking Saddle anyway. From memory, it was a pretty short day from Spec anyway. At least, to the Razor it wansnt that long.

[Drew]

Thanks for that update madmacca. I'm heading up to do the circuit with some friends on Thursday week. Could you tell me what condition Howitt Road is in at the moment? I haven't read anything about bad conditions on this road but thought I should check as we'll be driving a VW Golf and an Impreza. I haven't driven that way before.

Also, what was water availability like at Speculation and Viking Saddle? It seems like it's rained a fair bit up there lately so I'm guessing it's fine.

Cheers,

Drew

[magichat]

Thanks for that update madmacca. I'm heading up to do the circuit with some friends on Thursday week. Could you tell me what condition Howitt Road is in at the moment? I haven't read anything about bad conditions on this road but thought I should check as we'll be driving a VW Golf and an Impreza. I haven't driven that way before.

Also, what was water availability like at Speculation and Viking Saddle? It seems like it's rained a fair bit up there lately so I'm guessing it's fine.

Cheers,

Drew

no dramas with the road was up there on cup weekend.
Some decent potholes but if you take it sensibly you won't break anything.

[madmacca]

Drew,

As far as I am aware, the spring at Spec is very reliable in nearly all conditions.

Water at Viking Saddle is reasonable. Certainly easily obtainable at the moment about 300m east of the saddle down an identifiable footpad (pad starts at the southernmost boulder).

Can't help you with Howitt Rd, as I accessed Spec via King Spur and Mt Koonika.

Mad.

[Drew]

Great, thanks for that magichat and madmacca.

Can't wait for this walk, I've been wanting to do it for ages!

[north-north-west]

Just completed this circuit over cup weekend. Catherine Saddle to the Viking has been recently cleared, and is VERY easy to follow (there are some lightly regrown sections to the east of Mt Despair that weren't cleared, but they didn't really need it).

Interesting. For the record, from Viking Saddle to East Buffalo Rd is more jungle than track, once you're off the rockier parts of the Viking. And the lads who were coming down the eastern side of the Viking on Saturday, as I was going up it, left a note in the Barry Saddle book to the effect that it was "hard work the last two days, pushing through all the regrowth..." I felt sorry for them, considering how far their toils were from being over.
But if it's been cleared, just where did all that regrowth they were pushing through come from?