Viking circuit - Upper Howqua start (clockwise)
Posted: Sat 01 Jan, 2022 11:09 pm[check out my blog for same post as below but with photos: https://hishyp.wordpress.com/2022/01/08 ... -dec-2021/]
Completed the circuit on my second attempt. Did it in 3 days in power mode as I'm training for Oscars Hut to Hut in Feb. I'm certainly not the fittest and quickest out there, but it was a decent effort and I was really happy I made it in 3 days solo. Truth be told, I was overambitious and thought I could complete it faster, but the Viking is certainly a tough walk and tracks variable with most being not in a state for quick pace due to growth over tracks, rocks and sticks underfoot, meandering paths, ascent/descent, or on occasion no pad at all, combination of those, etc.
My focus on achieving distance each day meant that I didn't do any side trips (like go out on the Razor) or stay in the best campsites.
I had a light weight pack but didn't get around to weighing it with my gear. I estimate not much more than 10kgs with food and 3+ litres of water. My list of equipment is below*.
Day 1 (Monday 27 Dec) - 19.44kms. 1050 - 1815
Upper Howqua track - Queen Spur (QS) - Stanley Name Spur (SNS) - Crosscut Saw - Camp Creek.
Left Melbourne's Northern Suburbs about 6am. Was around a 4 hour drive plus pitstops and walk prep. As I was getting ready, another recent poster on here rocked up with 3 cars full of friends to do same circuit. They were planning to go up Howitt Spur but I might have convinced them to go up my route. I didn't see them again, so hopefully they had a good time.
I had done QS/SNS/Cross Cut to Camp Creek before on Xmas day 2016. This time QS and SNS was a little more overgrown than I remember. Some blackberry bushes creeping over the trail, and then on SNS a few more saplings and bushes in the way, but not bad. I kept to the footpad 100% of the time, but Craig I met at the SNS water source noted some difficulty keeping to the pad on the SNS leg.
This time I knew about the water source on SNS and filled up and had lunch with Craig who was lugging up his camera and tripod. I managed to present him with his lost lens cap which I came across a couple hundred metres down the track. The water source is a bountiful stream, soooo much bigger than I thought it would have been. That's not to say it'll always be that big, but I've heard it's reliable and it looked convincing.
Slogged up the remaining steep section onto the Crosscut. I knew from 2016 the remaining section to Mt Spec wasn't going to be easy just because I was on the ridge. And it wasn't. I had hoped to make it past Camp Creek, but started slowing down from Mt Buggery and accepted a camp spot there (at Camp Creek) with enough light left to start a fire and tuck myself into bed by 8:45pm. Cold night but quite bearable under my quilt.
(Side note: I had tried this very same route in 2016 and achieved it, but I was less fit and it was scorching then. I was absolutely smashed and turned back the next day when I counted 21 degrees Celsius at 8 or 9am next morning (plus sore body and mind). That time, I returned via QS from the western ridge off Mt Buggery - that's another story and I wouldn't recommend it.)
Day 2 - 630-1800 - 19-22kms (not sure as I had to conserve my watch and phone battery so turned off tracking at the Viking)
Camp Creek - The Viking - South Viking ridge - Wonnangatta River - Wonnangatta Track - Zeka Spur 4wd tk (camped about 1.5 kms up off the side of the road).
I'll be honest with you, with little idea what to expect I thought I had a slight chance of making Vallejo Gantner Hut with an early start. I had walked from Camp Creek past Mt Despair as a day walk in 2017 when I had driven up with my wife and baby. It was nice and simple then, and about the same now (though the old management track from Camp Creek seemed to be worse for wear and a bit more overgrown this time around). I thought that would be characteristic of the rest of the way to the Viking. Nope.
I did not expect that the rest of the way from below Mt Despair to the Viking would be so grueling and slow. The track meandered up and down near the crest of the ridge and I never seemed to get to the Razor. I took the wrong turn on one or two occasions, having to back track a minute or so when I met dead ends or second guessed myself. And it's not clear which way it goes over some stretches of rock. I couldn't make out that typical wear you see on the rocks from previous hikers' boots. Later, reading the map description of the AAWT on the SV Mt Buller region map I noted it did advise to stick close to the crest and ignore the meandering tracks of confused hikers leaving it (now me included).
I pushed on from the Razor and finally made the Viking saddle. What a climb from there to the top of the Viking. About 300 metres altitude achieved in well under a km. Exciting finish at the viking cliffs, climbing through the rocks to the top. 5.5 hours (11 kms!) from Camp Creek to The Viking then lunch.
A sometimes unclear track to South Viking. This is ok because it's easy to find South Viking but losing the pad does slow you down a tad either bashing through scrub or trying to relocate the track. Same for the top of the descent down to the Wonnangatta, but that is helped by some cairns. Track is fine for most of the way after that. Descent was quick enough here - perhaps 2 hours.
You might read of accounts of people taking the wrong spur down to the river and having to bash through blackberry bushes and wade down/up the river. What became apparent was the many little footpads going off in every direction in the last 100 metres of altitude. I paid close attention to my GPS and ended up at a nice little camp site with a fire place on the flat before reaching the river a further 50 metres behind some bush.
I was feeling much better after that descent. It was relatively quick and less exhausting. Struggling to get to the Viking in good time had me worried I'd need to camp at the river. But it was around mid-afternoon and I wanted to push on and climb as high as I could. I really needed to if I was going to get back to the car the next day at a reasonable hour. I still thought VG hut was a possibility if I was prepared to walk in the dark, but really that was a hopeful faded dream at this point. And in hindsight, not a good idea either.
Looking at my map I was expecting to follow the remnants of an old 4wd track across the river. Couldn't see one. Followed a footpad west... it didn't go anywhere so I turned and followed the footpad east, it took me to the river but not where I was meant to be. I walked back to the campsite and tracked towards the river again. Got to the river but couldn't see a track on any side of the river. Decided to start wading and heading to where my GPS said the Wonnangatta track started which would take me to the Zeka Spur 4Wd track in a km or so.
I eventually found it. It wasn't an old 4wd track at all, just a small track up on the banks of the river. Started the climb after filling up with water and cooling down properly but didn't stop for a rest and a half decent feed until a clearing closer to the 4wd track. The Track got better the higher I got. Then on to the Zeka Spur 4wd track and started climbing. Was so nice to have a wide walkway with no underbrush pulling at your legs, despite the uphill. I saw a couple of 4wds and a dirt bike going down the track which brought up a bit of dust. Waved at them but hadn't met or spoken to another person that whole day.
I was trudging along at a really slow pace. One step after the other without wanting to overheat or escalate heart rate too much. Body was telling me to stop but I wanted to get as high as possible. I only managed 1.5 kms along that track before that mental battle concluded with a rational argument I might not find a better camp spot and I'd be quicker in the morning after a rest. I was ~2.5 kms from the river and around 300 metres in altitude, so much better than staying on the river at least.
I had found a nice little clearing on the grass behind some bushes on the side of the road. Turns out it was just before a saddle. But a good spot as partly hidden from the road and away from any tall gum trees. There were a few more camping options further up the road I discovered, but nothing amazing worth planning for.
A long day! I had a good feed and was back in bed by 9pm after sunset with a much milder night weather wise ahead of me.
Day 3 - 600-1600 - about 22kms
Part way up Zeka Spur 4wd track - zeka Spur walking track - Mt Howitt track - VG Hut - Mt Howitt - Howitt Spur track - Upper Howqua track - Upper Howqua camp (finish at car)
Woke up really early and cooked up my packet chocolate brownie dessert in the pre dawn. Wasn't bad and something different. Walked up the Zeka Spur as the sun started shining through the trees. Wasn't sure what to expect this morning, but I knew the Howitt track would be in decent condition and then all down hill from Mt Howitt. Was hoping the Zeka spur walking track would be nice and straightforward too. But nope again, not a chance. The Topo Maps+ app has "revegetating" in brackets beside this track. Of all the tracks along the Viking, this little 5 km stretch was the worst.
While there wasn't a major elevation issue, trying to avoid (or ultimately break through) swathes of fallen trees, and thick bush and scrub while roughly keeping to the track was... not pleasant. Scrub pulling at your feet, diving through bush to get to the other side, often suspended on fallen tree branches and bush, was exhausting and slow. I probably found a footpad <20% of the way. When this happened, it would give me some confidence as I strode off, only to come back up against some impassable section. Looking up I tried to get a bearing and head towards a landmark, but I could only aim for trees and I'd be interrupted by bush and fallen trees which would then get me off course again.
My advice for this section is to not worry about the track, but get a bearing, keeping high and find the path of least resistance. Don't check where you are all the time as that will just slow you down. You only need to recalibrate position from time to time to ensure you aren't drifting off too far down a wrong way. You're also probably better off going further along the 4wd track before it drops away from the ridge (and ignore the stupid cairn I took to be the start of the track at around 1320m altitude).
Saw my first snake as I inched closer to the Mt Howitt track intersection. I was getting my bearing again, and deciding whether to go left or right around a tree in front of me. Made a quick call to go left, turned and saw a light brown snake 2 metres in front of me. Must have been waiting for me to move while I was checking bearings. Quickly changed my mind and went right instead.
Finally made it to the Mt Howitt track intersection and sat down for a break. Saw my first humans for a while and tried to have a conversation. I was ill prepared and mumbled small talk for a couple of minutes while they waited for a polite opportunity to get away from me.
On to the VG hut. A pleasant flat walk. VG hut and surrounds are beautiful. I'll definitely be back there with the family at some stage (will drive in from Licola). Filled up water after a famous loo stop, and on to Mount Howitt.
Mt Howitt is now my favourite mountain in Victoria; 360 views to the wilderness all the way back to Mt Buller. Deep ravines and drop offs and broad alpine meadows surround it. Approaching the summit on the AAWT there was a sign to a water source (200m).
After lunch with an old mate I met 2 days ago at Camp Creek, I took off down the Mt Howitt spur track back to the car. The track is very well trodden and wide in places, though a long descent to the Howqua. Another 3kms to the car along the Howqua seemed easy, and I started on a cracking pace with the finish line in mind. Body had other plans and I slowed right down as I felt cramps and injuries calling.
Back to the car and a wash in the river on a warm day was a perfect end. Bad luck to the many campers down stream that will have to filter out my BO for days.
Of course much more to it, and happy to discuss any aspects of it. I'd post pics, but forgot how to do it on this ancient forum haha.
*Equipment wise I took a quilt, lightweight warm sleeping mat, thin foam mat to protect sleeping mat, single person/single skin pole up tent, trail shoes, knee high gaiters (non w/p), 2 CF walking poles, jetboil and 1 small gas cannister, med kit, plastic bowl, spork, food (including my own dehydrated meals and one choc brownie retail one), 2 pairs socks/undies/shirts, light wind jacket, down jacket, beanie, 3/4 length pants, rain pants and jacket, sunnies, inreach mini, SV map/compass, iphone (with Topo Maps+).
Completed the circuit on my second attempt. Did it in 3 days in power mode as I'm training for Oscars Hut to Hut in Feb. I'm certainly not the fittest and quickest out there, but it was a decent effort and I was really happy I made it in 3 days solo. Truth be told, I was overambitious and thought I could complete it faster, but the Viking is certainly a tough walk and tracks variable with most being not in a state for quick pace due to growth over tracks, rocks and sticks underfoot, meandering paths, ascent/descent, or on occasion no pad at all, combination of those, etc.
My focus on achieving distance each day meant that I didn't do any side trips (like go out on the Razor) or stay in the best campsites.
I had a light weight pack but didn't get around to weighing it with my gear. I estimate not much more than 10kgs with food and 3+ litres of water. My list of equipment is below*.
Day 1 (Monday 27 Dec) - 19.44kms. 1050 - 1815
Upper Howqua track - Queen Spur (QS) - Stanley Name Spur (SNS) - Crosscut Saw - Camp Creek.
Left Melbourne's Northern Suburbs about 6am. Was around a 4 hour drive plus pitstops and walk prep. As I was getting ready, another recent poster on here rocked up with 3 cars full of friends to do same circuit. They were planning to go up Howitt Spur but I might have convinced them to go up my route. I didn't see them again, so hopefully they had a good time.
I had done QS/SNS/Cross Cut to Camp Creek before on Xmas day 2016. This time QS and SNS was a little more overgrown than I remember. Some blackberry bushes creeping over the trail, and then on SNS a few more saplings and bushes in the way, but not bad. I kept to the footpad 100% of the time, but Craig I met at the SNS water source noted some difficulty keeping to the pad on the SNS leg.
This time I knew about the water source on SNS and filled up and had lunch with Craig who was lugging up his camera and tripod. I managed to present him with his lost lens cap which I came across a couple hundred metres down the track. The water source is a bountiful stream, soooo much bigger than I thought it would have been. That's not to say it'll always be that big, but I've heard it's reliable and it looked convincing.
Slogged up the remaining steep section onto the Crosscut. I knew from 2016 the remaining section to Mt Spec wasn't going to be easy just because I was on the ridge. And it wasn't. I had hoped to make it past Camp Creek, but started slowing down from Mt Buggery and accepted a camp spot there (at Camp Creek) with enough light left to start a fire and tuck myself into bed by 8:45pm. Cold night but quite bearable under my quilt.
(Side note: I had tried this very same route in 2016 and achieved it, but I was less fit and it was scorching then. I was absolutely smashed and turned back the next day when I counted 21 degrees Celsius at 8 or 9am next morning (plus sore body and mind). That time, I returned via QS from the western ridge off Mt Buggery - that's another story and I wouldn't recommend it.)
Day 2 - 630-1800 - 19-22kms (not sure as I had to conserve my watch and phone battery so turned off tracking at the Viking)
Camp Creek - The Viking - South Viking ridge - Wonnangatta River - Wonnangatta Track - Zeka Spur 4wd tk (camped about 1.5 kms up off the side of the road).
I'll be honest with you, with little idea what to expect I thought I had a slight chance of making Vallejo Gantner Hut with an early start. I had walked from Camp Creek past Mt Despair as a day walk in 2017 when I had driven up with my wife and baby. It was nice and simple then, and about the same now (though the old management track from Camp Creek seemed to be worse for wear and a bit more overgrown this time around). I thought that would be characteristic of the rest of the way to the Viking. Nope.
I did not expect that the rest of the way from below Mt Despair to the Viking would be so grueling and slow. The track meandered up and down near the crest of the ridge and I never seemed to get to the Razor. I took the wrong turn on one or two occasions, having to back track a minute or so when I met dead ends or second guessed myself. And it's not clear which way it goes over some stretches of rock. I couldn't make out that typical wear you see on the rocks from previous hikers' boots. Later, reading the map description of the AAWT on the SV Mt Buller region map I noted it did advise to stick close to the crest and ignore the meandering tracks of confused hikers leaving it (now me included).
I pushed on from the Razor and finally made the Viking saddle. What a climb from there to the top of the Viking. About 300 metres altitude achieved in well under a km. Exciting finish at the viking cliffs, climbing through the rocks to the top. 5.5 hours (11 kms!) from Camp Creek to The Viking then lunch.
A sometimes unclear track to South Viking. This is ok because it's easy to find South Viking but losing the pad does slow you down a tad either bashing through scrub or trying to relocate the track. Same for the top of the descent down to the Wonnangatta, but that is helped by some cairns. Track is fine for most of the way after that. Descent was quick enough here - perhaps 2 hours.
You might read of accounts of people taking the wrong spur down to the river and having to bash through blackberry bushes and wade down/up the river. What became apparent was the many little footpads going off in every direction in the last 100 metres of altitude. I paid close attention to my GPS and ended up at a nice little camp site with a fire place on the flat before reaching the river a further 50 metres behind some bush.
I was feeling much better after that descent. It was relatively quick and less exhausting. Struggling to get to the Viking in good time had me worried I'd need to camp at the river. But it was around mid-afternoon and I wanted to push on and climb as high as I could. I really needed to if I was going to get back to the car the next day at a reasonable hour. I still thought VG hut was a possibility if I was prepared to walk in the dark, but really that was a hopeful faded dream at this point. And in hindsight, not a good idea either.
Looking at my map I was expecting to follow the remnants of an old 4wd track across the river. Couldn't see one. Followed a footpad west... it didn't go anywhere so I turned and followed the footpad east, it took me to the river but not where I was meant to be. I walked back to the campsite and tracked towards the river again. Got to the river but couldn't see a track on any side of the river. Decided to start wading and heading to where my GPS said the Wonnangatta track started which would take me to the Zeka Spur 4Wd track in a km or so.
I eventually found it. It wasn't an old 4wd track at all, just a small track up on the banks of the river. Started the climb after filling up with water and cooling down properly but didn't stop for a rest and a half decent feed until a clearing closer to the 4wd track. The Track got better the higher I got. Then on to the Zeka Spur 4wd track and started climbing. Was so nice to have a wide walkway with no underbrush pulling at your legs, despite the uphill. I saw a couple of 4wds and a dirt bike going down the track which brought up a bit of dust. Waved at them but hadn't met or spoken to another person that whole day.
I was trudging along at a really slow pace. One step after the other without wanting to overheat or escalate heart rate too much. Body was telling me to stop but I wanted to get as high as possible. I only managed 1.5 kms along that track before that mental battle concluded with a rational argument I might not find a better camp spot and I'd be quicker in the morning after a rest. I was ~2.5 kms from the river and around 300 metres in altitude, so much better than staying on the river at least.
I had found a nice little clearing on the grass behind some bushes on the side of the road. Turns out it was just before a saddle. But a good spot as partly hidden from the road and away from any tall gum trees. There were a few more camping options further up the road I discovered, but nothing amazing worth planning for.
A long day! I had a good feed and was back in bed by 9pm after sunset with a much milder night weather wise ahead of me.
Day 3 - 600-1600 - about 22kms
Part way up Zeka Spur 4wd track - zeka Spur walking track - Mt Howitt track - VG Hut - Mt Howitt - Howitt Spur track - Upper Howqua track - Upper Howqua camp (finish at car)
Woke up really early and cooked up my packet chocolate brownie dessert in the pre dawn. Wasn't bad and something different. Walked up the Zeka Spur as the sun started shining through the trees. Wasn't sure what to expect this morning, but I knew the Howitt track would be in decent condition and then all down hill from Mt Howitt. Was hoping the Zeka spur walking track would be nice and straightforward too. But nope again, not a chance. The Topo Maps+ app has "revegetating" in brackets beside this track. Of all the tracks along the Viking, this little 5 km stretch was the worst.
While there wasn't a major elevation issue, trying to avoid (or ultimately break through) swathes of fallen trees, and thick bush and scrub while roughly keeping to the track was... not pleasant. Scrub pulling at your feet, diving through bush to get to the other side, often suspended on fallen tree branches and bush, was exhausting and slow. I probably found a footpad <20% of the way. When this happened, it would give me some confidence as I strode off, only to come back up against some impassable section. Looking up I tried to get a bearing and head towards a landmark, but I could only aim for trees and I'd be interrupted by bush and fallen trees which would then get me off course again.
My advice for this section is to not worry about the track, but get a bearing, keeping high and find the path of least resistance. Don't check where you are all the time as that will just slow you down. You only need to recalibrate position from time to time to ensure you aren't drifting off too far down a wrong way. You're also probably better off going further along the 4wd track before it drops away from the ridge (and ignore the stupid cairn I took to be the start of the track at around 1320m altitude).
Saw my first snake as I inched closer to the Mt Howitt track intersection. I was getting my bearing again, and deciding whether to go left or right around a tree in front of me. Made a quick call to go left, turned and saw a light brown snake 2 metres in front of me. Must have been waiting for me to move while I was checking bearings. Quickly changed my mind and went right instead.
Finally made it to the Mt Howitt track intersection and sat down for a break. Saw my first humans for a while and tried to have a conversation. I was ill prepared and mumbled small talk for a couple of minutes while they waited for a polite opportunity to get away from me.
On to the VG hut. A pleasant flat walk. VG hut and surrounds are beautiful. I'll definitely be back there with the family at some stage (will drive in from Licola). Filled up water after a famous loo stop, and on to Mount Howitt.
Mt Howitt is now my favourite mountain in Victoria; 360 views to the wilderness all the way back to Mt Buller. Deep ravines and drop offs and broad alpine meadows surround it. Approaching the summit on the AAWT there was a sign to a water source (200m).
After lunch with an old mate I met 2 days ago at Camp Creek, I took off down the Mt Howitt spur track back to the car. The track is very well trodden and wide in places, though a long descent to the Howqua. Another 3kms to the car along the Howqua seemed easy, and I started on a cracking pace with the finish line in mind. Body had other plans and I slowed right down as I felt cramps and injuries calling.
Back to the car and a wash in the river on a warm day was a perfect end. Bad luck to the many campers down stream that will have to filter out my BO for days.
Of course much more to it, and happy to discuss any aspects of it. I'd post pics, but forgot how to do it on this ancient forum haha.
*Equipment wise I took a quilt, lightweight warm sleeping mat, thin foam mat to protect sleeping mat, single person/single skin pole up tent, trail shoes, knee high gaiters (non w/p), 2 CF walking poles, jetboil and 1 small gas cannister, med kit, plastic bowl, spork, food (including my own dehydrated meals and one choc brownie retail one), 2 pairs socks/undies/shirts, light wind jacket, down jacket, beanie, 3/4 length pants, rain pants and jacket, sunnies, inreach mini, SV map/compass, iphone (with Topo Maps+).
