Solo Tent

[Nuts]

Thats a nice system, not a bad price either.. They have a removable front, no rear vestibule, different fabric, very light though for the tarp section

[Nuts]

Ok, curves are nice too

I originally planned a straight base and floor attached directly to it, Cuben obviously does also benefit from catenary seams, sits much tighter.
I also gave it some new shoes, they are perhaps a bit bigger and heavier than needed. I have some hanging weighted in a backyard tree that are half the size and they would likely hold but just wanted to make sure (they are afterall, relying on glued surface area). Iv'e seen all sorts of different designs for tie-outs, tbh never seen a cuben tent 'in the flesh' so I'm not 100% on what the various manufacturers do other than photos. There are a lot of home builds on the net and many seem to just use the reinforcement to sew a conventional strap around.

I used the reinforcement as the strap, a full circle passing half through a D ring. I used Dyneema 'X' is a beautiful fabric that I'm thinking (aligned on its bias) will act like a 'spring' (I cut away a half circle of Cuben at the tie-out origin so the initial load goes straight to the dyneema, to an inner circle of X then to the outer (the part seen from the outside)

I think i'll call them Tassie 'Rock Plates' lol:

[Nuts]

I cant really get it tight enough (without more nail holes lol..) but its already pulling out better. Cuben can look rough in photos, it is wrinkly stuff...looks much better 'in hand'. I got some slackness when I cut the mesh vents into the peak, thought about having another go at it but its probably pitching time before that happens. Another day inside should let everything dry and cure.

PS.. For all the info available on various forums, I noticed a trend to hold back on the close ups and details especially by the commercial guys who post occasionally (which is fine... they put in the effort afterall..). I suspect, after a lot of trial and error they have found things that work, others that don't , much simpler ways of completing the various processes involved. Iv'e found already that little things that i toiled over for hours could have taken minutes though you don't find the detail on the net to help that part of the learning experience much. I'm happy to pass on anything iv'e learn't but do expect to need to do your own testing of attachments (such as tie outs). These are just my ideas, based more on the concept of what's hoped to achieve rather than following set plans etc.. also in general design, something made for my use (and area), might not be ideal elsewhere..

[photohiker]

Looks a bit like a Goa'uld starship called the Tel'tak.

Nice work. Needs Hieroglyphics down the sides though.

If you get hold of naquadah generator you should be able to cloak it.

[Nuts]

ha ha yer. It does look like its 'landed' someone else made the same comment when they saw it. I built canoes and racing kayaks for a while (some plugs which are built upside down) it was hard to stop seeing hull forms lol


Anyhow... just some final details to sort through. Most of the attachments are set. The 'big feet' have added 60/70 grams but i'm not overly fussed. I do find it a bit disapointing the tiny wrinkles, wherever there is pressure they pull to, much more easily than nylon. No big deal, may tighten up in the sun, we'll see.


The foot (windward ) end:

[Nuts]

So, whats next? This is where it gets a bit more complicated.. a shelter that will handle all weather, necessary... from here comes more additions for 'comfort'. Perhaps a proper inner tent would be nice, wouldn't be hard to make, not sure i'd use it much though...

I do need to sort out the tie outs. I like solid D rings, wont break and can peg straight through them. Really need a way to draw (and cinch) the cord right up to them. Linelocks are nice (have some on there ) but they should ideally be Above the D rings. A prusik style knot, at least the ones I know, will only half the cord length, any ideas??

[photohiker]

Well, cuben doesn't stretch does it? Should be a set once scenario.

What about eye splicing the guys to the loops and do something simple like a marlin spike hitch on the peg before you place it?

[Nuts]

Yer, good thinking. I had kinda been trying to keep it adjustable. Perhaps it doesn't need to be.. How it is setup now has the tenkara tube in the foot end. i was thinking of this height for summer, swapping for a lower Carbon Fibre pole for winter. It probably needs a tubb inner at this 'summer' height. Was thinking it would still be nice to lower the fly a bit (which I wont be able to do from inside anyway with an inner tent.. hmmm..)

A tub floor (with some way to 'gather' it at different lower heights?) A removable fabric ceiling liner? An adjustable rear pole?

I did think at one stage of attaching linelocks higher up on the Inside of the tieouts reinforcement, on webbing so they could be pulled out through the D rings and used but accessed (tightened down) from inside.

[Nuts]

Well its survived a stormy day/night so far so good lol Needs a valance or inner tent. Could do with a deeper catenary fall to the ridgeline and on the door seam, still some tweaking needed. I'll see if i can convince a 6' model for an inside photoshoot

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There are a number of things I will/would do differently. I am really liking Cuben Fibre though... i don't recall a tent that looks the same after wind, rain, cold and sun as it did when pitched (two days ago..)

[cams]

Looks beautiful. You seem to have a good eye for detail. I like your idea of attaching the line locs back up under the tarp so they can be adjusted from inside more easily too.

Do you have to un peg one of the front flaps to get in? Does it stand up ok with both of the front flaps rolled back?

[Nuts]

Thanks Cam. I'm not sure i can make the internal linelocks work without taking all the weight from the d rings and changing the way the peg points work (and with a built in floor or valance)(still in mind though)
Atm, yes, unhook the peg at the front, i'm not sure if i could get the tension on a strap or something without the peg. This might be one spot that the internal lineloc may work..

yer, stands fine fully open, i'm waiting for the right model to walk past the gate (ie.. one that wont slap me ha ha) Some other pics to come..

[Nuts]

[Bluegum Mic]

Bless. What a cutie.

Its a seriously great looking tent nuts. When will you start taking orders

[Nuts]

ha ha, i thought i was providing the details for others to have a go at making one (tent that is..), I'm sure you'd have few dramas..

[Orion]

Nuts, you've given me inspiration. My tent didn't end up as light as I had hoped and maybe I'll try again with Cuben.

I'm curious to see what yours ends up weighing.

[Nuts]

Cool (I hope )

I'm sure you have your own ideas about the tie outs Orion, tbh if I didn't plan to build more than one (and had a bit of 'creative leeway' ) i'd probably stick to more conventional sorts of tie outs.

These sorts maybe:

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[ninjapuppet]

Great use of the sawyer paddles Nuts. Even gets the thumbs up from the boy.

Is that a neoair trekker or an allseasons?

[Franco]

Orion
The biggest weight savings with a Cuben shelter over something like silnylon is if you make a tarp/pyramid or shaped tarp, for example Nut's tent as it is without floor or net/fabric inner.
By the time you add all the non canopy bits (including the more common nylon floor ) the percentage in weight savings goes down a lot.
Here is a quick and dirty comparison I did for a US forum member :
Terra Nova Photon $600
Ultra $1030 160g lighter

SMD Skyscape Trekker $225
X $450 200g lighter

LHG Solo $245
Cuben $475 200-250g lighter

To some the 10/250 g less is a lot but note the cost difference... (mind you when you make it yourself if you work at it a day or three longer does not really matter, still the fabric is dearer)
But if you prefer using Cuben for other reasons than it is a different matter.
Franco

[Orion]

Franco, thanks for those figures.

The only reason I'd buy Cuben is because it would save some small amount of weight. Cuben would cost me between four and five times as much as silnylon so it really only makes sense in a different, more minimal, design. I don't want to make the same tent again anyways.

And Nuts's tent looks cool.

[Nuts]

I'm not sure how much its taken, likely around 8 meters. Not a lot lighter than nylon, 100gs or so??. Cubictech direct was around $26 p/m iirc.

As I (think I) mentioned, I was as interested in the other attributes of Cuben, no stretch, no sew ( ) It is strong stuff (have a look at Zpacks stab test video, i'd definitely use it again. I hesitate to recommend anything iv'e done though until I see what happens over weeks in use (at least), I also carry a bivy.

I made mock ups of the tie outs (in particular) but there are complex tensions just impossible (to me) to know until building and they are all working together (or against each other), perhaps I got lucky.. i do already see things I should have done differently, nothing that is a 'show stopper' just easier to build or better designed... little things.. I probably would recommend starting with a flat tarp to learn that bit. But hey.. i didn't need a flat tarp yet

Mine was around 290g with small tie outs, 370 with the bigguns and lines in place.

I may consider the heavier Cuben or using the new extra heavy black stuff for static tie outs (if i didnt want to take the risk) Dyneema's stretch could do anything...

Thats is a reg size neo trekker NP.. Sawyer paddle is ideal, shaft for peak.

[Nuts]

Even gets the thumbs up from the boy.

Arr, yes, funny how things seem.. it looks that way but he is being told off by his mum for trying to click his fingers.. this photo is a few secs earlier ( ):

Trying to get the dog into the tent with him....

[Orion]

I'm not sure how much its taken, likely around 8 meters. Not a lot lighter than nylon, 100gs or so??.

I come up with something closer to 200g difference.

Cuben (25 g/m^2) versus silnylon (45 g/m^2) is a difference of 20 g/m^2.
8 (linear) meters of fabric is about 11 m^2.
11 X 20 = 220g.

Did I do that wrong?

[Nuts]

Ah, right 200g's... a bonus

*A couple of people have mentioned a side zip rather than at the front of the door. I probably still prefer the front but thisside option does have its own benefits.
*A flap covering the zip has been mentioned, i'm thinking any drips should be well forward (with a front zip) but this could be an option to consider..
*Mine is using the full height of a roll 1300mm+, I noticed while building a few things that could have made better use of the width (no need for hem folding, stopping short of the peak with the side walls, stopping short of the tie out reinforcement. These would/could gain another 100-150mm height overall)
* I'm thinking of a tubb floor joined to the walls with mesh (and probably just tyvek or something) but in a larger tent a proper inner using the 48gsm(?) cuben would be nice (and light.. perhaps 250odd g's(?)..

[Maelgwn]

Ah, right 200g's... a bonus

*A couple of people have mentioned a side zip rather than at the front of the door. I probably still prefer the front but thisside option does have its own benefits.
*A flap covering the zip has been mentioned, i'm thinking any drips should be well forward (with a front zip) but this could be an option to consider..
*Mine is using the full height of a roll 1300mm+, I noticed while building a few things that could have made better use of the width (no need for hem folding, stopping short of the peak with the side walls, stopping short of the tie out reinforcement. These would/could gain another 100-150mm height overall)
* I'm thinking of a tubb floor joined to the walls with mesh (and probably just tyvek or something) but in a larger tent a proper inner using the 48gsm(?) cuben would be nice (and light.. perhaps 250odd g's(?)..

*Front zip offers better protection of the "dry area" in my opinion, better for use in the rain, more akward for trying to cook inside.

*You have a waterproof zip, which should work fairly well for a while, even then, drips would come over the not so dry area (ie not over your sleeping bag)

*Tub floor would be great, something like the mesh + tub floor used in Roger's tents? (But with heigh adjustment too?). Ie cord used inside the mesh to hold the sides of the bathtub up, height adjustable with cordlocks ... And surely a breathable fabric would be better for the inner?

[Nuts]

I had similar thoughts with the zip, not waterproof but good enough, any drips should be no drama. I had in mind that it doesn't really matter if the zip fails (even moreso?) in the front of the vestibule. It is a bit harder to get it to close being so far forward, I put on double sliders... so you could unzip it and stick an arm out I guess

Do you have a link to rogers tent floor Maelgwn?

The idea using Cuben for the inner tent, I mean't for the floor, probably breathable nylon/mesh walls/liner.

[Maelgwn]

I had similar thoughts with the zip, not waterproof but good enough, any drips should be no drama. I had in mind that it doesn't really matter if the zip fails (even moreso?) in the front of the vestibule. It is a bit harder to get too to close, I put on double sliders... so you could unzip it and stick an arm out I guess

Do you have a link to rogers tent floor Maelgwn?

The idea using Cuben for the inner tent, I mean't for the floor, probably breathable nylon/mesh walls/liner.

Nothing ground breaking really ...

http://www.bushwalking.org.au/FAQ/DIY_RNCSummer.htm#Edge

You can see it in some of the photos also.

[marangaroo86]

Cool (I hope )

I'm sure you have your own ideas about the tie outs Orion, tbh if I didn't plan to build more than one (and had a bit of 'creative leeway' ) i'd probably stick to more conventional sorts of tie outs.

These sorts maybe:

1277165601_26940.jpg

1278526810_27590.jpg

Nuts , I like the look and use of just cuben fabric in the last 2 examples
Can you let us know were you saw this method.
maybe a link

THANKS
Marangaroo

[Nuts]

I collected a heap of pics from different places, these likely from backpacking light i'd say.

I doubt they described the method m'roo.
Pretty straight forward, what you see is a strap bonded between the tent fabric and a reinforcement patch. In the last pic, looks like he has put a stitch through the top of the strap. This would be likely doubt creeping in about the adhesives. Not really necessity.

Most in the sates are using Hysol or aquaseal. I did try these but they are expensive and hard to work with.
I got the hint that some of the commercial guys were using contact adhesive. Its all about making a test for whatever you use, if it works then your at the cutting edge
(You could use (say) selleys spray adhesive (for example)... but again, do your own testing, you'll be the one relying on it..... )

[Nuts]

Maybe this will help:

Heres my (highly scentific) testing method m'roo.

These are the reinforcements at the top of the page. One side was done roughly, fabric not cleaned, adhesive not fully tacked off when joined. That side still held when I half filled the buckets. They hung there in the tree swinging around for ages , eventually (after a lot of rain) I took them down but the joins still held (the rough side had slipped a bit but this happened in the first hours).

That was good enough for me.

[Franco]

nuts,
Any comments about your shelter 9 months later ?