Bushwalk Australia

I have taken advantage of some cheap flights to Ch Ch ( $250 return?!! ) to arrange a trip from 18th to 23rd March. We will be leaving from Lewis Pass on the St James Walkway to Ada Hut. Then up and over the Spenser Range to Bob's Hut in the West Matakitaki. Then via the East Matakitaki to the Waiau via Upper D'urville and Thompson Passes. Then back down the Waiau to the St james Walkway and out. Can't wait. This is the back door to Nelson Lakes NP, one of my favourite regions.

I am a recent NZ convert. Look forward to hearing about your trip!

flights are dirt cheap at the moment, you can pick them up for $80 (plus $90 in tax).

Cost me $250 return to Ch Ch including all taxes. It would have been less if I didn't have to check in my pack?

I am just back from an epic 4 day trip in the NZ South Island. More details to follow as soon as I get a chance to catch up.

Well what an epic trip this turned out to be. We arrived in Ch Ch late Wed. night and were up first thing to buy our supplies at one of the early opening supermarkets. On the road by 7:00 with only one detour; into Hanmer springs to buy gas. Left the car at Lewis Pass and were walking by 10:30 on the St James Walkway. Very good track with excellent facilities. Arrived at Cannibal Gorge Hut after 2 hours in light rain. This hut comes complete with internal plumbing! An hour later saw us at the Ada Pass Hut. Our original intention had been to leave the track here and head up and over Three Tarns Pass but the weather had closed in and so it was decided to press on to Christopher Hut. This we reached about 5:00PM. Two other parties were already in residence and even though we were all on the wrong side of 50 were still by some margin the youngest there. One group was all women, something I doubt we'd see in Australia.

With a big day in prospect we were away early. Sun up is not till after 8! Left the walkway early and crossed the Ada River before heading up the Waiau River which was to be our companion for the rest of the day. The going was very easy on wide river flats with good tracks to follow. Arrived at the Caroline ck Biv for lunch- 20k covered. From here the going became more difficult as the valley narrowed and the country steepened. Soon we had left the timber behind and were battling the sub-alpine scrub and then the mountain tussock and rock. At length the top basin came into view and with it Lake Thompson our destination for the night. Our location was spectacular and remote circled by a ring of sombre peaks. We quickly set about pitching the tarps in the lee of a great boulder near the outlet to the lake. Without any timber for poles it was necessary to run a line down from the top of the boulder. Windbreaks were then erected from nearby stone and before you knew it we had a snug and sheltered camp site. Well we were at over 6,000 feet and so wanted to be ready. Sure enough a strong wind did blow up but then subsided so we could get on with making dinner. What a wonderful evening we had as the son bathed the tops of the peaks opposite in tints of orange and pink. Then gazing out over the way we had come reflecting on the magnificance of it all. This is why we walk.

Next day dawned fine and clear and we quickly made our way up to the pass behind the lake. On attaining the ridgeline I recoiled in horror at the precipitous drop off the other side. Trying to keep my vertigo in check I edged closer and peered over. No way! Instead it was decided we would climb up to our left and then try and sidle high to another pass on the opposite side of the gulf beneath us. This proved arduous but possible as we struggled around on rock and rubble before at length attaining the foot of the pass opposite. From then our way was steeply up on shingle and scree to the ridgeline. This led across to the Matakitaki Valley our way of route. The descent was steep and over loose rocks which moved when you least expected it but at length was achieved so that we could break for lunch in the upper valley. Here the going was through forest and scrub. Occasionally a track would appear only to vanish. Eventually the gradient eased and we spilled out onto large flats which led down to a snug 6 berth hut right by the river. Even though it was empty and the hour was late we decided to press on. The going was a little easier now with a track of sorts to follow but many trees were down which slowed us up. We crossed the lower river at a three wire bridge, which is more like a trapeeze wire than a brigde, before heading up the left branch. More fallen trees barred our progress but just on dusk we came upon a large flat with a hut on the far side. We were met at the door by a couple from Queenstown who made us very welcome. It seemed the hut was named after Bob whose grave was right outside the door.

Next day we were again away early as this was our last day and we had much ground to cover. We now went up valley following a track through the forest until it opened out onto gorgeous upper flats. Then we successfully negotiated an upper gorge which led to the final pull up to the top basins. Here there were 3 large tarns all in a row, each different colours. This was obviously why our pass was known as 3 Tarn Pass. We clambered up steep rocky slopes behind the tarns and attained the pass. The views from here were the best of the whole trip and stretched for miles. It was now 1:00PM and we still had a long way to go. Quickly we descended and were careful to avoid bluffs. Soon we were once again battling sub alpine scrub and then bush before at length rejoining the St James walkway near the Ada Pass Hut. It was 3:30. The crossing had taken us 8 hours and we still had 13k to go. At least we had a well made track to follow and so we were back at the cars by 6:30.

By 9:00AM the next day I was back at my office in Sydney. The whole trip was something of a blur. Had I perchance been dreaming it all? Then I looked down and saw my battle scars. No I hadn't been dreaming; if anything I had never been more alive.

K.

Thanks Kanangra for that interesting and detailed account.You certainly covered some ground on some days.
Well done and thanks again.
FF

I have just returned from NZ after walking the iconic Milford & Routeburn Tracks. What amazing walks! We have nothing like it here in OZ. I must say that the Kiwi's do overnight camping superbly. Great, well graded tracks. They firmly believe in implementing user friendly zig zags where we would grunt up an ascent in a more direct approach! The Huts are cleverly basic but modern, spacious & well maintained with gas cookers, thick mattresses & flushing loos! There is a ranger based at every hut who gives a very entertaining & helpful talk every night. These are just hilarious! The scenery is absolutely epic & grand. The bird life is totally unfazed about introducing themselves to you!

Both walks are uniquely different.

When we finished the Milford, all 'trampers' were collected by a small ferry & taken to the Milford Sound Wharf. There, our group collected our second food supply parcel before hopping onto the Milford Wanderer to cruise the Sound overnight. This allowed us a shower, clothes wash & dry (very friendly, obliging crew!)a great meal & bonus activities before starting the Routeburn the next day. We travelled by bus to the start of the track with a delightful crew member from the Wanderer who offered helpful tips & insights from his previous experience of the walk. In fact, he was late delivering his other passengers due to the time he gave us!

We truly didn't meet an unhelpful New Zealander the whole time we were there & would encourage everyone to give these walks full consideration as an overseas destination for bushwalking.

I don't think I would call staying in those huts "camping". But it does sound like some great bushwalking/tramping. It's certainly on my to-do list.

If you are a "purist" & love your tent then use it by all means! There are provisions in some of the areas we tramped.

It's still all about walking in some pretty extreme conditions with a near full pack (minus tent, stove & mat) up hill (...more like bl@#dy mountains!!) & down dale! Avoiding the landslips & avalanches or if you are lucky, they tell us, experiencing the many cascading waterfalls & waist deep river crossings when it rains!

I've done my 'apprenticeship' in the bog, rain, snow, grunting ascents, unrelenting descents, aching back, cold meals, wet gear, never-ending dried fruit & muesli, scorparia, maggot-infested drop loos (Louisa River, Sth Coast), etc, etc...are you getting the idea! Bring on the basic, well designed huts. My pet hate on parts of the Overland is cold, miserably people in cramped, cold huts & the inevitable visit to the dreaded pit. Great to have them, mind you, & not have to dig a hole or have the opportunity not to pitch a tent in the cold, wet & windy night but the Kiwis do do it sooo much better. We are talking simple common-sense ideas.

I hope you get to do these walks & see what I mean. I know you will enjoy it...

lyndoor wrote:If you are a "purist" & love your tent then use it by all means! There are provisions in some of the areas we tramped.

I'm certainly not a "purist", and appreciate a good hut (in some locations) as much as anybody. It's just not what I call "camping". It's still bushwalking, and I'm sure it's still great. It just ain't "camping" (to me, at least).

I am a member of local NW Tas walking club. With 3 other members we left Tas on 30th March and flew into C/C (no cheap flights) and then flew to Q'town. We did the milford and routeburn tracks and had a great time on both. We had allsorts of weather from very hot and sunny at the beginning of the milford, to heavy rain at the end, and beginning of routeburn, snow the 2nd day, to fine and sunny at the end. The facilities in the huts were fantastic, mind you at $45 per night we did expect something, but the flushing loos, lots of cookers and comfortable mattress at the end of some long days, made NZ a wonderful place to TRAMP! Dont think about it, go and DO IT!
Enjoyed your story and look forward to hearing more and seeing pics soon. Granny

Granny,

Is that what it costs to walk those tracks these days? Or was that on a guided trip?

K.

kanangra wrote:Granny,

Is that what it costs to walk those tracks these days? Or was that on a guided trip?

K.

In peak season, that is the cost for the huts on the routeburn and milford tracks. The Routeburn huts are much cheaper during offpeak ($15, and camping is free) - I don't think Milford drops in price. For a guided walk I think it costs thousands...

lyndoor wrote: There is a ranger based at every hut who gives a very entertaining & helpful talk very night. These are just hilarious!

Sounds like you met up with the old guy at Lake McKenzie hut...his 'weather report' takes nearly an hour and leaves you crying with laughter. Possums, ducks, and New Zealand's answer to the drop bear some creature that digs holes in boulders.

I do agree though, the kiwis know how to make good huts.

kanangra wrote:Granny,

Is that what it costs to walk those tracks these days? Or was that on a guided trip?

K.

You don't need to pay to work the tracks though, only to stay in the huts. Technically you can camp as long as you get yourself several hundred metres away from the actual walking track. I doubt this is really a possibility given the terrain, thought there is a spot near the routeburn flats hut (just past there $15p/n camping ground) that is far enough away that you can stay without having to pay.

The exception to this is the Milford, during peak season you must book each hut in order in the correct direction, you may not skip a hut, nor may you stay for two consecutive nights in a hut.

The $45p/n is for Great Walks Huts which come with beds, gas stoves, log fires, flushing toilets, toilet paper and a full time range who gives a nightly weather report. During the day the ranger maintains the track.

Other huts are cheaper (either $5-15p/n or by purchasing a backcountry pass). There are other walks, such as the Hollyford, in which the huts are much smaller (sometimes just one room), do not have any cooking facilities (sometimes running water is outside), drop-toilets, and definetly no rangers. Consequently these tracks are both less popular and less maintained.

I have done three of the tracks, I loved the Routeburn, loved the Hollyford, and would visit both again. I would not visit the Kepler again as it is incredibly overcrowded, loud noisy etc.

lyndoor wrote:I have just returned from NZ after walking the iconic Milford & Routeburn Tracks. What amazing walks! We have nothing like it here in OZ. I must say that the Kiwi's do overnight camping superbly. Great, well graded tracks. They firmly believe in implementing user friendly zig zags where we would grunt up an ascent in a more direct approach! The Huts are cleverly basic but modern, spacious & well maintained with gas cookers, thick mattresses & flushing loos! There is a ranger based at every hut who gives a very entertaining & helpful talk every night. These are just hilarious! The scenery is absolutely epic & grand. The bird life is totally unfazed about introducing themselves to you!

Both walks are uniquely different.

When we finished the Milford, all 'trampers' were collected by a small ferry & taken to the Milford Sound Wharf. There, our group collected our second food supply parcel before hopping onto the Milford Wanderer to cruise the Sound overnight. This allowed us a shower, clothes wash & dry (very friendly, obliging crew!)a great meal & bonus activities before starting the Routeburn the next day. We travelled by bus to the start of the track with a delightful crew member from the Wanderer who offered helpful tips & insights from his previous experience of the walk. In fact, he was late delivering his other passengers due to the time he gave us!

We truly didn't meet an unhelpful New Zealander the whole time we were there & would encourage everyone to give these walks full consideration as an overseas destination for bushwalking.

Hi im looking a doing the Milford track in the first week in December. Can you give me some more details on how you got from Queenstown to the track and what did the over nighter in the sound cost? who with? Thanks

Humpo wrote:Hi im looking a doing the Milford track in the first week in December. Can you give me some more details on how you got from Queenstown to the track and what did the over nighter in the sound cost? who with? Thanks

Tracknet bus from Queenstown to Te Anau Downs, and then the boat from the Downs to the start of the track.
They also run back from Milford Sound to Queenstown (unless you intend to fly).
http://www.tracknet.net/tracknet/MilfordTrackTNT

Try 'Real Journeys' for your overnight cruise.
http://www.realjourneys.co.nz/main/milfordsound/