Caples Vs. Greenstone NZ

[Don-vic]

A party of three (two experienced) have booked to walk the Routeburn in November and hope to take either the caples or greenstone as the return leg back to Glenorcy. Now I know that "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" but which of the two walks (caples or greenstone) would be the most scenic route back - ei: west to east ?

[whynotwalk]

Looking down the Caples Valley

Hi Don-vic - what a lovely dilemma to have! Neither should disappoint you, but if I had to choose I would probably go for the Caples. The Greenstone is easier (pretty much all downhill from McKellar Hut). It's a broad river valley, with some lovely beech forest, plus large tracts of farmland, a few terraces and some narrow pinches/gorges. Most of the way you're beside the fast-flowing blue/green river, and surrounded by high mountains. The Caples is slightly harder (esp. the climb up to McKellar Saddle - seriously steep ). But the Saddle, in the right weather, is a stunning place to spend an hour or two. The Caples Valley is a bit more enclosed and varied, but still with plenty of mountain views and river flats between beautiful tracts of beech forest.

Personally I'd look at the weather before deciding. If it's going to be fine-ish, go via McKellar Saddle & the Caples. If claggy or wet, take the Greenstone.

I've posted some photos of both tracks on my photobucket site http://s1085.photobucket.com/albums/j433/auntyscuttle/South%20Island%20NZ%20-%20March%202012/, and I've also posted a longish account of walking up the Caples and down the Greenstone, starting here http://www.naturescribe.com/2012/03/against-flow.html

Happy tramping!

Peter

[bernieq]

I thoroughly agree with whynotwalk – we had the same plan in Apr 2009. Walked the Routeburn from the Routeburn Shelter to Howden Hut. A few of the group headed out to the Divide and back to Queenstown and three of us continued on.

The Caples was the original plan but the day before was a little wet – 180mm in 12 hours – waterfalls everywhere! The ranger advised taking the Greenstone as the confluence of creeks near the Upper Caples Hut would be a bit tricky in those conditions and more rain was forecast. Even the Greenstone Track, the previous day, had seen a tramper washed into a very swollen river – just luck that they survived.

On the Routeburn, plan a side trip (weather-dependant, of course) up Conical Hill at Harris Saddle – great scenery.

[Don-vic]

Thanks "whynotwalk" and "bernieq" for the advice. We will leave our decision until we are nearing the end of routeburn. As there is a "no booking" system for both greenstone and caples huts; i assume we simply turn up with our prepurchased coupons/tickets to (hopefully) get a bed at any of the huts. Also; how substantial is the township of Glenochy ? Is there plenty of o/night accommodation such as hotel/motel/guesthouse/etc as we are hoping to get a reasonably early start from there, rather than bus all the way from queenstown on our first morning ?

[whynotwalk]

Good plan Don-vic. You're right about just needing hut tickets, rather than per-booking specific dates for the Greenstone and Caples.

Glenorchy has a few choices, at various costs and standards. Personally we regularly stay around the lake at Kinloch Lodge, which is 15-20 mins. closer to the start of the walks concerned. They have a range of accom, from backpacker through to up-market, with a lovely atmosphere and great meals. If you prearrange it they can even do transport to the start of the tracks. And no ... we don't get a commission but yes, we are huge fans of Kinloch Lodge

cheers

Peter

[JamesMc]

I walked up Greenstone and down Caples a few years ago. Preferred Caples as Green stone felt a bit like a cow paddock. It's worth doing a side trip up the ridge south of Key Summit. Also stay at Lower Caples Hut as it's in a great spot.

JamesMc