Upper Howqua Valley to Howitt Circuit

[Lukec]

Hi there,
First post on this forum, though I have been ducking in and out of here for a while for the helpful info - there is so much info it seems all questions have been answered somewhere here before...
Anyway I though I'd start with a quick rundown of this 2 day hike I did recently in the Alpine National Park.
The route I chose was from Upper Howqua Valley Camping ground up Helicopter Spur, over Mount Magdala and then onto the AAWT across to Mt Howitt and Macalister Springs. I camped there for the night before returning back over Mt Howitt and down Howitt Spur back to the Howqua Valley and then along the river to the car. That's the short version! Day 1 I started walking around 7:00am and arrived in at Macalister Springs around 3:30pm. It's a fairly strenuous walk with an overnight pack. The route finding up the rocky sections of Helicopter Spur had me a bit stumped at times, so that I ended up sidling off the ridge once or twice accidentally and then facing a very steep scrub bash to regain the ridge. Watch for false leads around to the left of the first two rock bands.. Once past this section, however, the walking was more straightforward, although still plenty of ups and downs to negotiate. Stunning views along the ridge-top and over Mount Magdala.
The early summer wildflowers along the open areas, particularly around Mt Howitt were spectacular, and something I'd not seen before having been up at different times of year previously.
Sunset and Sunrise were magnificent at Macalister Springs, surely one of the most pleasant camping spots in the high country.
(Impressive views from the new loo there too, which wasn't around last time I visited.)
Day 2 saw a brief retracing of the route back over Howitt and the west peak, followed by the relentless descent down Howitt Spur to the river. I saw only 1 other group hiking over both days, very quiet the weekend before christmas!
A much easier walk than day 1, but a bit rough on the knees. Towards the bottom the track is becoming a little overgrown in places, not a problem to follow, just a lot of foliage, spider webs and caterpillars at perfect head height!
This is a great two day walk I reckon for those with reasonable fitness and some rock scrambling ability. Interestingly, much the same route is described by Glenn Tempest (Day Walks around Victoria) as a day walk, he must be a fitter man than I! I guess pack weight would be much lighter, but it would still be a lonngg day on the hoofs.
Cheers
Luke

[oyster_07]

Hi Luke,

I'll be heading up that way shortly. I trust water was flowing at MC Spring?

Nice photos!

[neilmny]

Nice photos and thanks for the report Luke.

[GregR]

Hi Luke,

I'll be heading up that way shortly. I trust water was flowing at MC Spring?

Nice photos!

I have just returned from 2nights at Mac Springs and the water flow was excellent. I probably drank 4 litres untreated and haven't dropped dead yet.

Agree also about the wild flowers on and around Howitt, nothing short of spectacular-and I normally wouldn't even notice wild flowers .

The loo with the view was asphyxiatingly malodorous and mercififully I was exceptionally "regular"

Hope this helps

[CaptainC]

I've been drinkign the Mac Springs water untreated since 1983. There wert warnings when I first went there but I've never had problems.

[paidal_chalne_vala]

I went up ( in very hot weather ) and back down the Howitt spur track ( in cloudy cooler overcast weather ) recently( 2,3,4,/1/15). I had a rest day on the 3/1/15 and had the hut to myself.
It is a bit of a slog , a tough ascent and a bit over grown in places too. The summit area of Mt Howitt in full low cloud can be a bit scary, but as long as you follow the map it works out OK .There is water flowing at Mac. springs.
It was very quiet up there at Mac. Springs and at the Upper Howqua campsite too.

[paidal_chalne_vala]

I just got back from Mac. Springs on The March 2015 Labour day weekend.The weather was rather good indeed.Mac Springs were flowing but very slowly. There is a rainwater tank and a tap behind the loo with a view now. We made it from Mac. Springs to Mt Buggery and back in a day.
Mt Buggery was so full of lunch time walkers eating and resting , it didn't feel that remote. It was crawling with humans, like an ant hill that had been knocked over :-0.

The Mt Howitt car park was overflowing !At Mac. Springs People were lighting camp fires everywhere. It is a fuel stove only area.There was hardly a spare tent space anywhere in the camp grounds or on either approach tracks etc. Oh the horror........ I think the Mt. Howitt Carpark should be moved about 15 km further away from the Gantner hut!. It was like the Prom during peak season :-0

There were so many four Wheel drive hoons up there driving way too fast on the Howitt road. The Howitt road is very , very dusty and barely OK for 2 WD cars in some very rough sections at the moment.
It has been graded with a grader during the summer or so the ranger told me at Platypus camp site number 14 and it seems the monster off road 4WD bogans have hacked it up again. On the way home Seeing some of the 4WD crowd at Licola, they are much fatter and more bogan like. Us trekkers are slimmer, walk more up right , and will outlive them all I think.
Somebody had smashed the Bennison look out sign with their monster Tonka toy truck! . The Ranger had the remains in her vehicle . I had a good chat with her and let her know what else should be done at Mac. Springs to get people to stop stripping the place of firewood, making bonfires that are leaving charcoal scars everywhere, washing dishes in the springs themselves , leaving litter incl. whisky bottles etc. leaving the hut in a mess, using all the firewood inside the hut and then not replacing it , etc. I shall file these matters with my VNPA trip report too . In spirit I am with those who camped at Stanley Name spur track junction on the Cross cut saw and the people who camped on the top ledge of the Howitt spur track just before the summit west , and just came into Mac. Springs for water. They had the best campsites and plenty of serenity .They had the right idea and most likely just were horrified at the over concentration of people at Mac. springs. Maybe they should limit the numbers allowed at the campsite the way Little Waterloo bay at the Prom is ?. I do think that Magazine story in the RACV rag about Mac. Springs being an easy walk brought all the wrong people out of the woodwork on the long weekend.I was up there in early Jan. 2015 and I had the hut and the whole campsite to myself!!! If The Howitt spur via the upper Howqua , the AAWT from Big Hill and Mt Speculation were the only access points by foot then it would be a different story.

[neilmny]

Very sad story p_c_v. I avoid holiday time travel these days. It's just not worth it.

[Earwig]

The March edition of the RACV's magazine RoyalAuto featured Mac Springs and Mt Howitt as an "easy walk". Wonder if that convinced a few non-walker types to check it out.

[madmacca]

Mt Buggery was so full of lunch time walkers eating and resting , it didn't feel that remote. It was crawling with humans, like an ant hill that had been knocked over :-0.

Yeah, Mt Buggery is a convenient lunch spot for people starting the CC Saw from either end - both groups tend to meet in the middle. But at least you know that anyone who has got there is reasonably serious about their walking.

The Mt Howitt car park was overflowing !At Mac. Springs People were lighting camp fires everywhere. It is a fuel stove only area.

I'm trying to remember from my last visit there - how adequate is the Fuel Stove Only signage at Mac Springs? And perhaps also at the car park entrance? I know PV is on a budget, but this is only a matter of 3 or 4 painted signs on star pickets. Yeah, it mightn't eliminate fires at Mac Springs completely, but some people will follow the rules if prompted.

[paidal_chalne_vala]

There are NO "fuel stove only " signs. They are obviously situated at Mt Bogong and Mt Feathertop 's trail heads. People generally adhere to these suggestions when clearly placed . I suggested to the ranger, Dannika from Heyfield that she put 3 or 4 of these at each end of the trail from the Howitt car park to Mac. Springs.

[carma1]

This then, doesn't bode well, for my Easter ramblings......

[paidal_chalne_vala]

Easter could be worse in some ways at Mac. Springs, unless the weather forecast is for blizzards or sleet storms. I would cart double water up the Howitt spur from the Upper Howqua and camp on the last ledge of the so called 'staircase'. From there you can go into Mac. Springs and get water and walk some of the Cross cut saw. You would see fewer bogans in denim jeans carrying large car camping tents in their hands from the Howitt car park. Yes I did see that !!. Especially if you packed up and hiked onto Big Hill and Mt Magdala via Mac Springs for a water stop.
Whatever you do avoid Mac. Springs during a March long weekend.
Never again! " The horror, the horror ...."

[stry]

Thanks for the report PCV.

You seem to have taken one for the team