Evans Crown summit

[paul8]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d5wuH3 ... sp=sharing
Above link is a picture of Evans Crown near Tarana/Lithgow.
Is it possible to climb up bare hand, up the top boulder, and be at the summit of Evans Crown ?
If possible, from which side of the top boulder do you climb up ?

[sandym]

Based on your picture, unless you are a pretty good rock climber or boulderer, I would say no. Even a good rock climber/boulderer is going to have to solo (that is, no protection in case of a fall) the route so they need to be completely confident they will not fall. I assume "bare hand" means without aid. This is all on the caveat that there is not an easy route around the other side. The side facing the camera is undercut granite with down sloping holds, and, even if you get up you then have to get off.

[awmross]

I have been up the top of Evans Crown standing next to that boulder. I remember it being around the size of a house. There was no way I could climb it. From my estimation you would need some kind of rock climbing skills and/or equipment.

I took this photo of the boulder while standing next to it. The camera is at eye level. That wall is at least twice my height.

https://www.theglassonthebar.net/public/EvansCrown.jpg

I found a fairly easy way to get to that rock. Approach from the north, climb halfway up the summit, then head clockwise around until I found a steep narrow slot ramp that took me almost straight to the top. It didn't involve any scary climbs. Every other direction I tried was pretty scary.

Message me and I will send you a gpx if you want.

[tom_brennan]

You can see the routes to the summit at:
https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/aus ... 1753663440

They start at about Grade 13 (rock climbing).

[sandym]

Problem is, none of those climb the big boulder that is the absolute summit that paul8 (ultimate peakbagger - nothing wrong with that) wants to climb.

There are no reported boulder routes to the top so I think short of somehow tossing a rope from one side to the other, anchoring the far side and ascending via jumars or prussics, paul8 is out of luck. Or, use a ladder.

[paul8]

awmross - I had reached the spot next to the large boulder in your photo.
It is this boulder I'm interested in climbing ... so as to reach the summit of Evans Crown

tom_brennan - thanks.
At a cursory glance, nothing in thecrag website seems be useful for me.
I'll take a more detailed look later.

sandym » Mon 08 Aug, 2022 2:09 pm ... sums up what I wants to do
May be not possible

[sandym]

Yeah, the crag guide won't help. The climbing routes are not on that summit boulder. I think you are hooped getting up the final summit boulder. Even if you did manage to toss a rope over, ascend with prussics/jumars, that is not really fair means. Even peak baggers have ethics, right?

[north-north-west]

Even if you did manage to toss a rope over, ascend with prussics/jumars, that is not really fair means. Even peak baggers have ethics, right?

This is a weird comment. Peakbagging is peakbagging - you get up any way you can. The Tasmanian Peakbaggers' official criterion (from the lists put out by the HWC) is "You have to touch the very tippy top"; no more. I know people who've carried folding ladders to get up the summit boulder on Mayson. It counts.
By your standards, no artifical assistance would be permitted, but how far do you take that? Permanent ladders? Tracks? Gloves and shoes?

Bouldering is a different thing.

[Warin]

Even if you did manage to toss a rope over, ascend with prussics/jumars, that is not really fair means. Even peak baggers have ethics, right?

This is a weird comment. Peakbagging is peakbagging - you get up any way you can. The Tasmanian Peakbaggers' official criterion (from the lists put out by the HWC) is "You have to touch the very tippy top"; no more.

So a parachute is ok... as is a helicopter ...

[north-north-west]

So a parachute is ok... as is a helicopter ...

Technically, yes. If you could invent a matter transporter that got you there alive, that would also count.

I would, however, submit that there is a difference between using a helicopter to land you on the summit and using ropes/ladders to climb. With the latter you are still using your own physical efforts to get there.

[sandym]

Peakbagging is peakbagging - you get up any way you can. The Tasmanian Peakbaggers' official criterion (from the lists put out by the HWC) is "You have to touch the very tippy top"; no more. I know people who've carried folding ladders to get up the summit boulder on Mayson. It counts.
By your standards, no artifical assistance would be permitted, but how far do you take that? Permanent ladders? Tracks? Gloves and shoes?

Not everyone will define "peakbagging" as you get up anyway you can nor use the Tasmanian Peakbaggers criterion. If you used a ladder in some other countries/cultures you could be accused of cheating, even among "peakbaggers."

As a Dilbert reader, I can also easily recognise a false dichotomy.

As yet, we live in a free society so Paul8 gets to make his own definition, which will very likely differ from mine and yours.

[north-north-west]

Peakbagging is peakbagging - you get up any way you can. The Tasmanian Peakbaggers' official criterion (from the lists put out by the HWC) is "You have to touch the very tippy top"; no more. I know people who've carried folding ladders to get up the summit boulder on Mayson. It counts.
By your standards, no artifical assistance would be permitted, but how far do you take that? Permanent ladders? Tracks? Gloves and shoes?

Not everyone will define "peakbagging" as you get up anyway you can nor use the Tasmanian Peakbaggers criterion. If you used a ladder in some other countries/cultures you could be accused of cheating, even among "peakbaggers."

As a Dilbert reader, I can also easily recognise a false dichotomy.

OK, exactly which aids do you consider to be acceptable, and which are not? And does that mean that, by your standards, no-one can claim to have peak-bagged Everest if they use what is considered to be standard equipment, procedures and assistance, such as ropes, oxygen, sherpas, etc? And why is carrying rope & ascenders or a ladder and using it on an otherwise unclimbable rock, "cheating"?

[Warin]

OK, exactly which aids do you consider to be acceptable, and which are not?

Would constructing steps in rock faces be 'acceptable'?
Say using a scutching tool... could even add an angle grinder...

[north-north-west]

OK, exactly which aids do you consider to be acceptable, and which are not?

Would constructing steps in rock faces be 'acceptable'?
Say using a scutching tool... could even add an angle grinder...

Environmental damage is a different thing. I'm asking about standard climbing equipment.

[sandym]

OK, exactly which aids do you consider to be acceptable, and which are not? And does that mean that, by your standards, no-one can claim to have peak-bagged Everest if they use what is considered to be standard equipment, procedures and assistance, such as ropes, oxygen, sherpas, etc? And why is carrying rope & ascenders or a ladder and using it on an otherwise unclimbable rock, "cheating"?

You are creating a false dichotomy - either everything is fair game (including a ladder) - or nothing is fair game. Rather than there being only two options, there are literally hundreds of options and local communities could generally decide which options are fair and which are not by consensus. The climbing community has been doing this for decades. The process, as any old time rock climber knows, is not without rancour, but it does seem to roughly work, like capitalism and democracy roughly work.

If we were both competing in some type of competition, standards would be relevant but as peak bagging is an unregulated activity we both get to have our own standards that align with our philosophical views.

[north-north-west]

I'm not creating anything; I'm asking what your personal assessment is, given that you said something that suggests that, to you, carrying and using rope, ascenders and other climbing gear invalidates the claim of bagging a peak.

My brain is stuck in a WT *$&#? loop because you said something that just doesn't make much sense to me, so I'm trying to find out what you mean and where that comes from.

[sandym]

Don't know why you care, but perhaps slow day at work?

My personal line is using a rope and protection for safety is legitimate, tossing a rope over and jumaring up or carrying up a ladder is not. If I do not have the skill to do something, my personal philosophy is I either go away, get better, and come back when I have more skill or I give the objective a miss. YMMV.

[CBee]

It's called aid climbing. It's perfectly legit in Yosemite or Mt. Buffalo to stay closer or in many parts of the world. Not sure why should not be legitimate on EC. Talking about skills, try to climb without sticky rubber under your shoes and then think about aid...

[paul8]

Hello everyone,
A group of us made it to the summit of Evans Crown.
Difficult climb !
But easy for us as we had help from 2 rock climbers.
They set up the ropes for us.
Here is my trip report and some interesting photos:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GQ182kOxEIIY2EFZ3C0rINpH1BnM2OpG/view?usp=sharing

[CBee]

Ahahha, anything goes. Well done, brilliant!

[climberman]

Hello everyone,
A group of us made it to the summit of Evans Crown.
Difficult climb !
But easy for us as we had help from 2 rock climbers.
They set up the ropes for us.
Here is my trip report and some interesting photos:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GQ182kOxEIIY2EFZ3C0rINpH1BnM2OpG/view?usp=sharing

looks like great fun!

[sandym]

Looks sketch especially the branch anchor. I guess you might be able to claim the first aid ascent? You did perservere.

[rcaffin]

Impressive.
Cheers
Roger