by clarence » Sat 16 Jun, 2012 3:08 am
King Luke the 14th.
I did it in Jan 2003 from Mt Wilson to the track out of the Colo (is it called Turner's Track???) about 12km downstream of the Wollangambe junction. We missed the uppermost Wollangambe as the park was closed due to bush fire and we had to "sneak in" to the canyon. Just added to the adventure I suppose.
I contacted some outdoor industry guys from the Blue Mts prior to the trip and they could only offer some very sketchy information. Apart from a walk report in an old Wild (early 1990s from memory) magazine that was done by a few trippers, I have not heard any other information about the trip.
Took us 8.5 days. We had supplies for 10 days. It is pretty slow going. We averaged about 6 to 7km per day, and that was travelling light (as light as possible with 10 days worth of food allows on a lilo) and moving pretty fast. Myself and partner were both fairly agile and fit. I had alot of experience on such things, it was her first trip over three days in length. My pack with all "common gear" (tarp, epirb, first aid, stove, repair kit etc), food, main lilo plus spare lilo and wetsuit for the walk in weighed about 24kg.
We had one spare lilo for the first part of the trip, but some friends took it out after four days (they only came for the first bit and walked back to Mt Wilson along the ridge). A very comprehensive kit for repairs is essential. Heaps of contact adhesive and few generous squares of canvas. Learn how to repair a lilo before you have to. This includes learning how to repair a lilo when it is pissing down with rain (which is possible). Set up a tarp and fire up the stove (MSR type is better) so you can pre-dry the fabric and help the glue dry more quickly. Make sure you take a stove even if it is for this purpose alone (it is hard to light a fire when it's been raining all day).
A steamer wetsuit is pretty essential, as you get a fair few knocks and bruises against the rocks otherwise. I'd reckon a long-leg/short arm variety with a light long sleeve shirt over the top would be ideal. Take a pack with minimum pockets and zippers that can be thrown on and off the back/lilo and vice versa several times per hour. Pockets and straps and tags catch on things and fill up with water which is a bit painful.
It may be equally as quick to walk some parts of the Wollangambe (depending on water levels), but I would still take the lilo regardless, especially for the Colo (and then at least you have the choice of walk or paddle). It is very "mixed" between paddling and walking. Sometimes the pools are 20m long with 50m rockhopping, sometimes the pools might be 200m long with 10m of rocks. It is very variable.
I always use plywood hand paddles with bike tube bands (to go around the back of the hand) for lilo trips. Gives heaps better propulsion and also some protection if pushing off jagged rocks etc.
We had a crappy square tent fly with some insect netting which worked fine. Slept on the lilos on sandy beaches (or flat rocks) most nights, so no need to carry country mats or ground sheets. This makes the accommodation setup very light.
There were no full-on rapids (> grade 2) at the lower (normal?) water levels we encountered. Volleys or solid running shoes with good grip are ideal for the terrain. There are rocks, and rocks and more rocks. You will learn to love rock hopping. The scrub beside the river was typical for the Blueys. Thick here and there, but not too awful on average. Only saw one snake depsite being the middle of summer and pushing through riverside scrub regulary (was a death adder too, only one I've seen ever).
There are heaps of amazing sandy campsites, beautiful creek junctions where the side canyons come in, stunning clifflines. The fireflies are truly something to behold. Take earplugs because the cicadas can be deafening. It is one of those true wilderness expeditions that is challenging yet acheiveable for someone who is confident and has a reasonable amount of experience. For the whole time you will not see a camp fire ring, track, footprint or sign of human activity. To have that experience in a true wilderness is pretty special, especially within 100km of Sydney. Some people will argue it is not a "true lilo trip" or "it is quicker to walk"... yeah, whatever, they are the ones who haven't done imaginative expeditions to places like this. Sitting up on the balmy evenings watching the yellow glow of the fireflies curving through the trees is something I will never forget from that trip.
On the last section of the Wollangambe before it hits the Colo we camped on a beautiful beach with a circular sheer cliff like an amphitheatre above us. We named it Sunbird Wall, in memory of an old bushman friend who recently passed on. (I think we named the campsite Baby Spice Beach too if I remember correctly).
Say g'day to Sunbird Wall when you get there (I can give you the GR or any other info you may want). Maybe do a shorter overnight trip or two before the Wollangambe just to make sure you have your kit fully sorted out too. Heaps of good trips on the upper Shoalhaven which would be ideal (Oallen Ford to Skull Island is pretty special).
Gotta love a good lo-tech lilo expedition.
Clarence