Chains on Carlon Head

[tom_brennan]

I recently received an email from a correspondent that suggested the chains on Carlon Head had recently been replaced. I asked them if any of the other hardware had also been replaced but didn’t get any more info.

Is anyone else aware of this, or can add anything?

cheers

[FatCanyoner]

I haven't heard anything, but I might pop out there and having a look if I get a chance in the next couple weeks... if no one else has.
From memory the spikes, especially on the second pitch, are far dodgier than the chain, so it would seem pointless to replace one and not the other. That said, it can be climbed without the hardware if your careful.

[Grabeach]

"That said, it can be climbed without the hardware if your careful."

I think it might require a bit more than being careful to get up without hardware. We know Ron Compagnoni obviously did, I suppose Tom can and you know your ability better than anyone esle.
I know I can't (not even when I was younger and sillier), which probably means over 99% of non-rockclimber bushwalkers can't either.

[FatCanyoner]

Last time I was there I was with a friend who insisted on climbing the whole lot without so much as a foot touching a spike or a hand touching a chain. He didn't have much trouble, and did it without a belay. It was easier than some of the other passes we've done. That said, a sh*thouse climber like myself probably wouldn't enjoy doing it!

[tom_brennan]

If you're interested in Graham's reference to Ron Compagnoni, you can read about it in:
http://www.bushwalkermagazine.org/the-a ... annual.pdf

I certainly wouldn't be free climbing that pitch of Carlon's, though I've probably done more a few more dangerous scrambles. But those have tended to be because once you start going up, it's sometimes scarier to try and go back down than keep going!

I'd consider it a rock climb rather than a scramble - don't know what grade it would be. Maybe 8ish?

[FatCanyoner]

Just looking through the index of that edition of The Bushwalker. What an amazing collection of names and trips. Myles Dunphy, Paddy Pallin, Dot English (Butler), Gordon Smith, Frank Craft, Marie Byles... and some really pioneering walks. It's amazing the challenges that first went into exploring places that are now casual day walks!

[Wollemi]

If you're interested in Graham's reference to Ron Compagnoni, you can read about it in:
http://www.bushwalkermagazine.org/the-a ... annual.pdf

Compagnoni is mentioned on pages 15, and 46. An intriguing read throughout that unfortunately leaves the post-contact history of Compagnoni Pass in Kanangra-Boyd NP unanswered.

[Allchin09]

I descended the chains on Boxing day at the start of an adventure up Harry's.

It was quite dark and it was my first time down them, but the chains which you used to descend (and to throw the packs down with!) looked relatively new and in quite good condition. My walking partner had been down once before and believes that the spikes on the middle descent had been improved, making it safer to climb down.

It was great to do, but I'll have to go back again when there is more light for the views.

[glennr]

We tried an ascent of Carlon Head on Easter Monday and decided against it. The lower climb was OK, but the second, exposed climb has had some stirrups broken/removed. Looking at some earlier pictures it seems that the two lower stirrups are no longer there. The stirrups used to be great for a really secure handhold, but now with these missing and without any way to protect ourselves we pulled out. With some protection any half reasonable climber could get up, but I would say that bushwalking parties should probably forget this route up unless they are carrying some basic climbing gear. Down with rope and abseiling gear would be my preference now.

National Parks have erected signs at the bottom of Carlon Head near the power pylon and at the base of the second climb declaring the 'historic' chains and spikes unsafe and not to be used for abseiling or rock climbing. The signs look quite new and shiny.

By the way, I have climbed these ladders a few times and most recently in late 2011. I felt it was quite OK then, but not now.

[khouw]

Has anyone sussed out the conditions of the chains yet? looking at route options to go down Megalong Valley from Narrow Neck in a future walk...

[KANANGRABOYD]

Carlon's chains is a lousy way to get off Narrow Neck with a pack. Once down the chains, it is a crappy walk to the firetrail road. If you want to go to Megalong and are at the Firetower, a much easier and nicer way is to go via Taros, Mt Debert, and then Medlow and Firetrail to Packsaddlers.
I used to climb upto grade 28, and have extensive mountaineering experience, and decending the chains with a heavy pack is no fun. I can't imagine soloing that with a pack - maybe up, but not down.

[FatCanyoner]

If you want to go to Megalong and are at the Firetower, a much easier and nicer way is to go via Taros, Mt Debert, and then Medlow and Firetrail to Packsaddlers.

Better yet, use Dunphys Pass. It's a good few kilometres shorter than the option above and not technical (other than some slippery ledges etc). Definitely no chains / spikes etc. It's also quite pretty.

I totally agree re Carlons. I haven't been there for a while, but I wouldn't want to descend it with a pack. In fact, I'd probably set up a belay on the dodgy second pitch from the bottom as well as doing a pack haul. Going up is another matter. It's exposed and scary, but not too hard when moving in the right direction!

[Grabeach]

Harmil Ledge (Glenraphael Head) would be even quicker, though some may request tape assistance going down.

[jonnosan]

Surely redledge would be easiest of all?

[Grabeach]

Not if you're at the fire tower!