Main Range Walk - Charlotte Pass to Mount Kosciuszko

[sanbot]

Didn't want to hijack the other post that recently came up about Main Range walk so thought I'd start a new one.

I will be doing this walk as a day hike with a few friends in 2 weeks time and have some questions that I hope you guys could help out with.

- Is the track notes on Wildwalks.com plus the signage on the actual track enough to go by on the day (e.g. are there sections where there might appear to be multiple paths?)?
- I've read mostly that doing the walk anti clockwise is the way to go. But then I came across a blog where the hiker said clockwise was better because there was less ascents to negotiate. So is there really a difference? Is there any advantage for doing one way over the other and not just in terms of difficulty?
- Has anyone gone recently who can tell me whether we will likely get wet crossing the Snowy River?
- Is Jindabyne the best place to stay to do the walk from Charlotte Pass if not camping?
- Is 9 hours enough to allow for walking at a brisk pace, with time to take pictures, enjoy an hour lunch and possible side explorations?

[johnw]

I've done this circuit walk numerous times in both directions as a day trip, as well as different side trips and trackless variations that I've cooked up myself. 9 hours should be plenty if you are reasonably fit, including the Blue Lake LO and Kosciuszko summit side trips. It's not difficult, just steep in places. In good weather it would be hard to get lost, even without a map; the few obvious junctions are well signposted etc, but please do take a good topo map (e.g. Perisher Valley 1:25000 but there are plenty of tourist maps at other scales that cover the walk). And be prepared for any weather. There may be some advantage in going clockwise but I much prefer anti-clockwise (as per Matt's Wildwalks track notes) as I think the views are revealed in a much more spectacular fashion. Some of these are breathtaking, especially if you are seeing them for the first time - The Sentinel, Club Lake, Lake Albina to name a few. And going in this direction Mt Kosciuszko is framed in such a way as you traverse the Albina high pass that it actually has a the profile of a mountain rather than a big grassy hill. The other advantage of going anti-clockwise is that the finishing section along the old Kosciuszko Road is predominantly downhill. The views remain constant throughout the walk; on this last stretch you get to relax somewhat and look across at all the high points that you covered earlier. We were just there again over the Xmas break. Didn't do the actual circuit this time but we did use the track on one walk to go from Charlotte Pass out and back to Mt Anton via Mt Twynam. The crossing of the Snowy River below CP is an easy boulder hop across stepping stones and was no different to numerous other times I've done it (water level was quite low but can vary e.g. after rain). I did actually see one person mis-time a step resulting in a wet trouser leg and boot full of water, but mostly just emabarrassment. My wife joined us for the section to Blue Lake and back. She is not a bushwalker (and the most unsteady person on their feet that I know) but managed both Snowy R crossings without incident. We stayed in Jindabyne, which is the closest major centre to the walk. We almost always base ourselves there, partly for convenience, partly for the views over Lake Jindabyne and the mountains.

[sanbot]

Thank you for the advice johnw. The point about Kosciuszko looking more like a mountain then a hill is enough reason for us to do the walk anti-clockwise.

I'm also concerned about the weather and hesitant about booking accommodation before getting a better idea of whether it will be clear. I'm aware that the weather can change all of a sudden but which website tends to have more accurate forecasts of Kosciuszko?

Also, what are some must do side trips on this walk?

[north-north-west]

Also, what are some must do side trips on this walk?

If you have time to get out to Townsend, do it, or at least as far as Mueller (there's a good pad out to Townsend, but Mueller is unmarked) - gives you a very different perspective.
The Sentinel is also a brilliant little bit of something extra special.

[johnw]

Also, what are some must do side trips on this walk?

If you have time to get out to Townsend, do it, or at least as far as Mueller (there's a good pad out to Townsend, but Mueller is unmarked) - gives you a very different perspective. The Sentinel is also a brilliant little bit of something extra special.

I agree with NNW that these are both great side trips (we actually revisited Townsend on our recent trip after many years, but as an out and back trip from Thredbo). The relevance of my comments depend on your skill/experience but IMHO they are both a higher degree of difficulty than simply following the Main Range track. You will also need to allow a fair bit of extra time for each which I think could be pushing the envelope timewise for a day trip. I can't remember how long it took us from the MRT to Townsend and back (it started raining approaching the summit climb, we stoppped to put on gore-tex gear, had lunch on Townsend and stopped on the way back to discuss the weather forecast with a guy camped in Wilkinsons Valley). The narrow Townsend pad where it traverses below Muellers Peak can be braided in places and a bit awkward to follow. You need to identify where it cuts in from the MRT (these side trips are not signposted). More a route than a track but navigation is easy enough if know what you are aiming at (hence the topo map). Ballpark I'd guess a couple of hours extra to do Townsend.

The Sentinel again is a fantastic option but navigation issues are similar. Personally I'd rank it as more difficult than Townsend as there is a tricky exposed section that is difficult to avoid. You need to identify the Mt Twynam turnoff and follow that track (revegetating old service road) to a point where you can identify the access route. Again I'd reckon at least a couple of hours extra for the Sentinel (YMMV). If considering any of these harder options I recommend getting hold of the guidebook Snowy Mountains Walks by the Geehi Bushwalking Club 8th edition which has a wealth of information and advice.

The standard side trips are Blue Lake Lookout and Kosciuszko summit. You could probably add Seamans Hut but that's effectively on the track. Anything else is bespoke and potentially traverses senstive vegetation (alpine rarities with a short growing season and limited distribution). The book above has a lot of good info on how to minimise your impact if walking off track in the area and which locations to avoid. Maybe save the other side trips for a revisit in the future?

Most of the weather sites are sourced from the Bureau of Meteorology site. But some are more friendly and concise at presenting the info. I like Willyweather and Weatherzone. I think Weatherzone may have additional input from weather buffs with their own equipment. I usually try and compare at least a couple of different sources. This time of year weather is generally not a major problem, e.g. snow is unlikely but it is possible, including blizzard-like conditions if the atmospheric conditions are right, regardless of how hot it is in Sydney. One year, on the day after Boxing Day, we walked to Rainbow Lake and back in a snow shower with about 30cms of the stuff on the ground in places. It was 38 degrees celcius in Sydney. Up on the range is almost always a bit cooler wth a prevailing stiff cool breeze coming off the western fall. It can become violently windy on some days e.g. gusting to 100 km/h.

[PiniPowPow]

Townsend and Sentinel are both beautiful. Perhaps consider the Porcupine Rocks trail from Perisher which gives a great view over the Thredbo Valley.

[sanbot]

Thank you johnw for your very detailed responses and thank you everyone else for your suggestions.

I want to do all of the suggestions but will have to see how we go for time given that this will be the first time i've walked with this group.

Biggest concern right now is weather. I can't book anything until I get a better idea of the weather on the day.

[Lophophaps]

I agree with the above. Sentinel is a bit hairy, and a no-go in the wet unless you are very confident on rock. Townsend is very nice, with an on-off pad for the middle section. Allow 1.5-2.5 hours return for each. I like anti-clockwise as this gets the river crossing out of the way and there's an easy cruise home in the afternoon. Plus, in an emergency there's the Rawson Pass hotel, ensuite but no bedroom or bar. The main route is quite easy to follow; you barely need notes. I suggest carrying about 1-2 litre of water. I'd carry less, but I know where the water is located and have the metabolism of a camel. My socks smell like one as well.

[mattburga]

I did this walk on Monday. We did it anti clockwise - heading towards Bluw Lake first.

We did not get wet. The creek crossings were simple.

We rented a cabin of stayz in Jindabyne. And completed the walk in under 6 hours.

Didn't look at at track notes at all, did take a topi just incase. It's aan easier walk to follow but hard and steep in parts.

[sanbot]

Thanks for all the replies all very helpful!

On the park website there is mention of a multi day pass but no price. Is that simply just the per vehicle per day price multiplied by the number of days? Or something else?

[north-north-west]

I think you get an extra day free if you pay for three days, something like that.

[sanbot]

I was very impressed with the Main Range walk. It far exceeded my expectations because I envisaged that it would be more like a walk up some hills. Photos really do not do justice for the mountain in terms of how dramatic the scenery is. But seeing the peaks and the granite tors scattered around Kosciuszko and looking out into the lower mountain ranges it really did feel like I was climbing a mountain and thanks johnw for mentioning that doing it anti clockwise gives it a profile of an actual mountain. Maybe not to what I experienced in the US but impressive nonetheless. The views from the summit itself was not the most impressive in my opinion. A section just before Curruthers peak was far more impressive and the Blue lake with its large amounts of granite surrounding the lake reminded me of the Iceberg Lake in Glacier National Park. Already thinking about my next trip back! I want to hike to the Sentinel and explore Blue Lake more. Not very impressed with the pricing arrangements though.

[Lophophaps]

Sanbot, I'm glad that you enjoyed the trip. The pic from near Carruthers captures something of the majesty of the mountains; as you say, photos do not do the place justice. You have be there, feel the wind in your face and be able to look back down the mountain to the Snowy. You have done something that most here can never do - seen the walk through new eyes. My first walk there was in 1973, a lifetime ago. Your words bring back evocative memories. The bluffs on Blue Lake are interesting in winter, and I've camped on the water beneath them.

Now that you have an idea of what's involved you should be able to gradually extend your range of walks, slowly adding new bits until one day you can with confidence link those bits. For example, you may do another walk taking in Twynum and Tate, returning via the ill-named Tate East Ridge. Later you could start from Guthega Power Station, climb Gungartan, and then return over Dicky Cooper Bogong and Tate.