by Grabeach » Thu 09 Apr, 2015 8:07 am
Alex rang me yesterday, but as others may be interested I'll repeat my answer here with some more detail.
Ignoring the tracks, the three historical routes more or less directly to / from Blue Gum in ascending order of technical difficulty are:-
1. Orang Utan - The traditional way in is a scrubby walk down though the top cliff line. A less scratchy way in down a slot with an easy short scramble was hard to find, but there is now a GPS reference for it. The ledge has no technical difficulty, it just has a huge drop off the side that overwhelms some people. You can put a couple of metres of rope or tape round a couple of bushes as a psychological aid. The gully though the bottom cliff line is very steep, but not technical. Below that is typical Grose scrub all the way to the bottom. Other than a couple of early trips, I haven't even bothered doing the bottom gully. The best of the walk is down to and along the ledge.
The location of the pass was pretty much forgotton by the early 80s, not helped by it being 1 km south of where it was marked on the 1st and 2nd Ed. topos. May have been corrected on the 3rd. Wilf Hilder told me it still existed but wouldn't say where, so I had to search for it. You descend the gully on the south west side of Clarke Head. A few years later, I placed a visitors book there (1989?). Only use for a number of years after this was by people I'd taken or told. Macqueen and especially the Keats / Fox books lead to an increase in visitation.
2. David Crevasse - Fairly straight forward provied you are in the eastern arm, the western one having a number of abseils. There is one medium to difficult scramble (put 'Gordon Smith Chimney' in the Search Box and click the David Crevasse link for a photo) that is easier up than down. Again, bad scrub down to the river.
3. Gordon Smith Chimney (actually first ascended be Webb and Whitehouse 20 years earlier) - Appears to have had regular use up until about 1970, when a landslide reportedly made it more difficult. Unfortunately I have never come across anyone who had done it both before and after the landslide, so I am not sure of where the landslide actually was.
Going up, there are two routes at the bottom both of which are to the southeast of the main slot. The one I did with difficulty on belay, I would not attempt otherwise, even in my younger days. The other one was done by a CBC party after rejecting the first as too difficult. Once up this there is a long medium but exposed scramble up to a terrace, which you follow back into the main slot. Further up there is an exposed medium to difficulty scramble which you may want to abseil if coming down. Finally there is choice of two routes near the top. Although there is an old piton in the east arm, the west one is easier with minmal exposure.
The GSC is a serious undertaking. I would strongly recommend that you have an experienced rock climber in the party. Otherwise I'd suggest taking plenty of rope and scrambling down then back up again. This avoids the scrub, but obviously won't get you to Blue Gum. Either way, ideally have someone with you who has done it before.