March 2021 attempt

[Anotherjonesy]

Good morning AAWT brains trust.

My journey is almost here, no extended lockdowns or bushfires look to be stopping it from commencing this time.

Anyhow, can I ask some questions in exchange for a trip report when I get the chance?

Firstly, low saddle road water 900m N from the campsite. How likely/reliable is it to have water at the moment considering the rain has disappeared the last 3-4 weeks?

Secondly , Mt McDonald west peak, how exposed is this site in wind , or is there some nice boulders to tuck behind with the tent?

Thanks
Ben

[Anotherjonesy]

I'll answer my own questions then...

Water wasn't at 900m below low saddle road, but another 200m lower.
Campsite at Mt McDonald west peak was an outrageous view. You don't want bad weather but..

I'll give a detailed report of my first 10 days when I roll into Hotham tomorrow, battered and bruised..

[Baeng72]

Nice work. Look forward to reading your report.
10 days from Walhalla to Hotham is a reasonable clip.

[Lamont]

Look forward to hearing of your travails Jonesy.

[Anotherjonesy]

Ok stage 1 complete , a bit of a summary.Took me 11 days to get to Hotham, about my limit, but I need to be back at work by Easter Tuesday, so for a rapidly middle ageing weekend homebrewer who's main past time is fishing, this walk was/is going to be endurance test , a personal challenge, along with spending a month in the magical Australian bush. The track goes through some of my childhood fishing/camping haunts, to walk through these regions adds to the appeal.
I'm not an experienced bushwalker this is a new hobby I've taken up after coming back from overseas and doing some treks around the world . Here, I've only done a couple of solo week trips previous to this in the past year, but my fishing obsession has taken me far and wide, so I'm not hopeless in the bush.

Anyway
Day 1 - taxi to Walhalla from Moe train station was $100. I started about 11am headed for mushroom rocks. Track becomes tougher just below Mt Erica road, one thumping tree fallen straight down the track . Got to camp in 7.25 hours, a bit tired by the end, better get used to that...

Day 2. Mushroom rocks to stronarchs camp. 7.25 hours. Easy day, cold day so non taxing walking. Track very overgrown below whitelaws, but easy enough to follow. The hikers campsite is rubbish, but down where the water crosses the road , just before on the right there's an old track that goes in 50m, there's a nice little spot there overlooking the clearing, hidden from view.

Day 3- Stronarchs to Red Jacket, 8.2 hours . An intro into the near vertical 4wd tracks! Camped up at the old school site, it's up off the road out of view, flat grassy area. Mozzies horrific

Day 4 - Red Jacket to Black River , 9 hours. Another steep day. Took champion spur instead down to the river. Rough campsite at black river, wouldn't want to strike a busy night with tent spaces...
Mozzies thick again

Day 5 black river to Rumpff saddle , 5.5hours. Slog getting up out of Black river to Shillinghaw is the vivid memory, and glad I was tackling it at the start of the day. Track was lost a few times and had to literally bash my way back onto track. It's a great observational challenge this walk. Basically any chainsaw signs no matter how old, big or small is your pathway .
Lazy afternoon drinking beer in the tent from my food drop as rain set in

Day 6 - Rumpff to Mt McDonald west peak. 11 hours. A brutal day. Despite on a 4wd track was nice walking up and down to mt sunday. Asleep at the wheel I managed my first mishap and ended up going down mt sunday road to low saddle...was 2kms down before I realised, so just kept going hoping I might find water on it before having to walk down low saddle road for it...no such luck. Water was 1.1kms down low saddle Rd. Then the push up to Mt McDonald. Was extremely hard work for me late in the day and had little left in the tank , but was rewarded with one of the greatest campsite views imaginable. If I can figure out how to post pics on here I'll edit it later..

Day 7 Mt McDonald west peak- Chester's yard. 9.5 hours. A dog of a day. My urgency to stay on schedule had me making poor choices today. Had severe trouble finding a path over high cone, square top and Mt clear. I kept getting suckered down, but I think the higher ground was the way. Each time I'd have to walk back up hill bush bashing, in the heat was taxing, and I was having to rashion water until Chester's. Anyhow we got there. Met my first walker doing the entire thing at camp, from the other end, infact she started in Qld . Anthony talks about her in his book, what a trooper

Day 8 Chester's - Camp CK. 8.5 hours. Magical walking in the morning. Once I hit the Crosscut saw I had to hit the go button because of the threat of afternoon storms . Sheltered under a rock ledge below Speculation to let one go over. A misty walk into an eerie Camp CK.

Day 9 Camp CK - Barry saddle . 8.5hours. Took a beating . Wet terrain from previous nights rain had me take more falls than I had entire trip, one was potentially bad on that rocky face before Viking Saddle. This area is dangerous in the wet, and I was a little over confident with my foot work and slipped landed on my arm, was nasty, luckily only bruising and scrapes, could of ended it there. An hour later I took a spectacular backwards tumble over a wet log, more visually humerous than physically threatening. The chimney was a new challenge for me, never done climbing , so was a bit apprehensive, but got through. Bag got snagged when I was lifting it up which led to a few expletives...all good in the end

Day 10 Barry saddle - Coghill CK campsite , 8.5hours. guthooks app listed that campsite, it's pretty hopeless, one spot for a tent next to two roads, but with the rain front coming in it had to do. Was hoping to do a mammoth day and get as close great Alpine road as possible. That rain front prevent that . Better off avoiding Selwyn , the descent though there is through burnt grounds and the track is hard to follow, and the terrain visually unappealing. Take the lower route via the great dividing track

Day 11. - Coghill CK - Hotham 8.5hours. took twins jeep track entire way to great Alpine Road. The wind chill on the southerly change was pretty crisp, so took the easier option. That last 10kms on the bitumen was torture on the feet, I wouldn't begrudge anyone taking a lift if it was offered. Some great views along there but

So we've made step one. I know I've taken the AAWT's heaviest punches so far and still feeling good, but a bit scratched up! The next couple of days will be like a theme park in comparison, with well marked trails, huts, etc.

Got a rough no frills video, will try and upload it later. Bit of humour at my struggles

[Baeng72]

Epic!
Sounds brutal, but would be a great experience.
I hope you have had a few quiet ones at the General.

[Anotherjonesy]

Epic!
Sounds brutal, but would be a great experience.
I hope you have had a few quiet ones at the General.

I did, but my tolerance for noisy todlers after 11 days of solitude wasn't high, so retreated back to my room for a couple.
Forgot to mention, I can highly recommend aasgaard for accommodation. $120 a night ( edit, I was only charged 60 a night, what a bargain! ) full kitchen facilities, and an outstanding room balcony with a view overlooking where you've just came. Got the place to myself . Ask for room 9 for the view

[bigkev]

Ok stage 1 complete , a bit of a summary.Took me 11 days to get to Hotham, about my limit, but I need to be back at work by Easter Tuesday, so for a rapidly middle ageing weekend homebrewer who's main past time is fishing, this walk was/is going to be endurance test , a personal challenge, along with spending a month in the magical Australian bush. The track goes through some of my childhood fishing/camping haunts, to walk through these regions adds to the appeal.
I'm not an experienced bushwalker this is a new hobby I've taken up after coming back from overseas and doing some treks around the world . Here, I've only done a couple of solo week trips previous to this in the past year, but my fishing obsession has taken me far and wide, so I'm not hopeless in the bush.

Anyway
Day 1 - taxi to Walhalla from Moe train station was $100. I started about 11am headed for mushroom rocks. Track becomes tougher just below Mt Erica road, one thumping tree fallen straight down the track . Got to camp in 7.25 hours, a bit tired by the end, better get used to that...

Day 2. Mushroom rocks to stronarchs camp. 7.25 hours. Easy day, cold day so non taxing walking. Track very overgrown below whitelaws, but easy enough to follow. The hikers campsite is rubbish, but down where the water crosses the road , just before on the right there's an old track that goes in 50m, there's a nice little spot there overlooking the clearing, hidden from view.

Day 3- Stronarchs to Red Jacket, 8.2 hours . An intro into the near vertical 4wd tracks! Camped up at the old school site, it's up off the road out of view, flat grassy area. Mozzies horrific

Day 4 - Red Jacket to Black River , 9 hours. Another steep day. Took champion spur instead down to the river. Rough campsite at black river, wouldn't want to strike a busy night with tent spaces...
Mozzies thick again

Day 5 black river to Rumpff saddle , 5.5hours. Slog getting up out of Black river to Shillinghaw is the vivid memory, and glad I was tackling it at the start of the day. Track was lost a few times and had to literally bash my way back onto track. It's a great observational challenge this walk. Basically any chainsaw signs no matter how old, big or small is your pathway .
Lazy afternoon drinking beer in the tent from my food drop as rain set in

Day 6 - Rumpff to Mt McDonald west peak. 11 hours. A brutal day. Despite on a 4wd track was nice walking up and down to mt sunday. Asleep at the wheel I managed my first mishap and ended up going down mt sunday road to low saddle...was 2kms down before I realised, so just kept going hoping I might find water on it before having to walk down low saddle road for it...no such luck. Water was 1.1kms down low saddle Rd. Then the push up to Mt McDonald. Was extremely hard work for me late in the day and had little left in the tank , but was rewarded with one of the greatest campsite views imaginable. If I can figure out how to post pics on here I'll edit it later..

Day 7 Mt McDonald west peak- Chester's yard. 9.5 hours. A dog of a day. My urgency to stay on schedule had me making poor choices today. Had severe trouble finding a path over high cone, square top and Mt clear. I kept getting suckered down, but I think the higher ground was the way. Each time I'd have to walk back up hill bush bashing, in the heat was taxing, and I was having to rashion water until Chester's. Anyhow we got there. Met my first walker doing the entire thing at camp, from the other end, infact she started in Qld . Anthony talks about her in his book, what a trooper

Day 8 Chester's - Camp CK. 8.5 hours. Magical walking in the morning. Once I hit the Crosscut saw I had to hit the go button because of the threat of afternoon storms . Sheltered under a rock ledge below Speculation to let one go over. A misty walk into an eerie Camp CK.

Day 9 Camp CK - Barry saddle . 8.5hours. Took a beating . Wet terrain from previous nights rain had me take more falls than I had entire trip, one was potentially bad on that rocky face before Viking Saddle. This area is dangerous in the wet, and I was a little over confident with my foot work and slipped landed on my arm, was nasty, luckily only bruising and scrapes, could of ended it there. An hour later I took a spectacular backwards tumble over a wet log, more visually humerous than physically threatening. The chimney was a new challenge for me, never done climbing , so was a bit apprehensive, but got through. Bag got snagged when I was lifting it up which led to a few expletives...all good in the end

Day 10 Barry saddle - Coghill CK campsite , 8.5hours. guthooks app listed that campsite, it's pretty hopeless, one spot for a tent next to two roads, but with the rain front coming in it had to do. Was hoping to do a mammoth day and get as close great Alpine road as possible. That rain front prevent that . Better off avoiding Selwyn , the descent though there is through burnt grounds and the track is hard to follow, and the terrain visually unappealing. Take the lower route via the great dividing track

Day 11. - Coghill CK - Hotham 8.5hours. took twins jeep track entire way to great Alpine Road. The wind chill on the southerly change was pretty crisp, so took the easier option. That last 10kms on the bitumen was torture on the feet, I wouldn't begrudge anyone taking a lift if it was offered. Some great views along there but

So we've made step one. I know I've taken the AAWT's heaviest punches so far and still feeling good, but a bit scratched up! The next couple of days will be like a theme park in comparison, with well marked trails, huts, etc.

Got a rough no frills video, will try and upload it later. Bit of humour at my struggles

Well done Jonesy, you are setting a cracking pace - it's all down hill from here though:wink:

I had to laugh at your description of Shillinglaw - doesn't sound like its got any better since I went through! Did you make the mistake of heading towards Mt Skene or did you just take Middle Ridge Road?

How's Guthooks working out? I'm still carrying printed notes and maps mostly (along with a GPS) and have been hanging out on getting Guthooks because I didn't think that the less well trodden tracks in Aus would have enough people going through to keep the information up to date and accurate - if it's working OK on the AAWT then maybe it's time to change over?

Cheers Kevin

[Anotherjonesy]

G'day Kev, love your blog of your trip from a few years ago, read it a few times.
I took middle ridge road, one because it had numerous water sources, and two because I dropped a food drop down there 1km before Rumpff.
There was a fella behind me actually who pressed the SOS in Shillinghaw last week.. Got to much for him . Not that bad if use a GPS and some common sense...

I've barely used guthooks tbh. I'm just using maps.me, then downloaded the GPX file off trail hiking.com.au. figured maps.me got me solo around the world for two years it will get me to Canberra.

Guthooks is good for showing elevation of each marked point of interest, water tanks, etc, otherwise I haven't bothered with it. General consensus on Facebook was the AAWT map wasn't much good compared to the overseas versions from those that have done big u.s walks and the AAWT

[Anotherjonesy]

Not the best quality, but some might find it of value, amusing, etc...
https://youtu.be/PGR7WFjiddQ

[kelvinn]

Love the video and write up! Very jealous. Keep it up!

[Anotherjonesy]

Thanks Kelvin. Just watched it back on YouTube, jeez the quality is so poor on the new phone, takes good photos but insipid videos it seems. Will switch back to my other phone to film from here on

[Mr Bean]

Impressive! And setting a great pace considering my partner and I did Rumpff to Hotham in 10 days or so

The video brought back memories. Coghill Ck was where a thunderstorm broke over us and it got a little hairy. Looking forward to the rest of the trip.

[Anotherjonesy]

I've made Thredbo , left three weeks ago today. A wet past few days , but had a strategy after looking at the forecast and that was to hightail it to the border and get ahead of schedule so when the rain hit I could take it easy doing half days in between huts to dry out. Strategy worked, and I feel pretty fresh now only doing 50kms the past three days with tomorrow's rest day at Thredbo up my sleeve still.

Hotham- cope creek . Had a late start from Hotham, the aasgaard was such a nice place. Can see myself going back there just to laze about for 4-5 days. Heaps of people in the theme park section, was shocked. Lots of groups and heaps of school camp trips. Camped at cope creek away from everyone.

Cope Creek to Cleve Cole hut- school groups flooded the bhp and huts still. Wasn't til I got to ropers at lunch that solitude was found again. Did the big down and up in the arvo, then side tracked to Cleve Cole. Had it to myself

Cleve Cole to sunnyside- a bit overgrown the long spur, but easy enough. Interesting picnic tables in the middle of nowhere. The walk up to Mt wills caught me off guard, was either the steepest yet, or I was in a flat spot. Brilliant spot and views up the top, but decided to push down the highway and stayed at Sunnyside.

Sunnyside- Taylor's crossing. 8 hours. Heading down to
gill creek was a little rough in sections. Nice secluded spot down there, tipping it would be infested with mozzies but. Made it Taylor's crossing, disappointed to see the water was now brown after the carp had found there way up there in recent years. Was clean when I was a kid. As nice a spot as it is it's a pr!CK of a campspot at night. Cars/hunters coming down at every hour through the night, shooting, etc. Nothing against them, but I don't want to hear that in a solo hiking tent.

Taylor's to Beloka . Walk through the rural section, then a steep drop down to the Morass. So much wildlife through here tracks spill off in every direction. Then the climb up towards Johnnie's top from benambra-corryong road, this section sucked. Got pillaged in the green tunnel by branches and stickers, lots of treefall. Happy to hit the roads at the top. Diverted down into Beloka , got a private hut down there, was heaven. Speaking to someone who's done the aawt 4 times now, recently did Johnnie's to buenba, said it was an utter dogs breakfast, plus it's closed,so didn't miss anything there

Beloka - Murray River (mcartheys track). An epic day , think I did 40km. A little confusing with the diversions, but with the ugly fire regrowth was keen to fly through, plus I wanted to beat the rain in a few days time. Did 26kms to lunchtime to buckwong hut, decided to kick on down mcartheys , then stayed down on the Murray in a nice spot to myself. Even caught a trout before bed

Murray - cowombat. Limestone creek road was deplorably steep, made days 3/4 look Mickey mouse. Bumped into a girl on horseback doing bnt, she complained about limestone. Back on the official aawt at stoney creek and little to no fire damage from here on. easy sailing once on cowombat track then down to the flat in the rain. What a great little valley. Sat in the tent and watched the horses emerge, and a wild dog. Earlier that day I saw wild pigs and deer, that's a rare feral Victorian quaddie!

Cowombat to tin mines hut. Rain hadn't stopped overnight, was a day ahead of schedule so easy 18km walk to tin mines huts, only took 3.45hrs. what a magic setting, might as well be the 1850s! Happily set up camp in the main hut as the rain continued all night.

Tin mines huts to cascades hut. Rain continued, another half day. Got to another idealic high country hut after a bit over three hours. With the afternoon free and minimal dry wood I took the rod down the creek and found the trout plentiful. Was no doubt about it was trout cooked over the coals for dinner

Cascade - Thredbo. Arrived midday with clearing skies finally. Unfortunately my food parcel never arrived at the YHA.... So now I'll have to resupply at Foodworks thredbo, which is not only the most expensive supermarket in the southern hemisphere, but northern as well.

A rest day tomorrow, then come Saturday, I'm making a beeline to Tharwa, off to the races I go! Only so many days I can eat packet pasta from foodworks haha

It's been a great trip, getting easier now in NSW for sure, Victoria is brutal to nearly the border. Don't be suckered in that it's easy after Hotham like I was. Definitely is easier once you hit cowombat but

I'll post the part 2 video tomorrow. I'm not going back through my post for my grammar errors typing on phone..

[Baeng72]

Impressive effort! You're killing it. Smart move getting ahead of the weather.

[crollsurf]

Wow, a few ups and downs to go but all the hard stuff is behind you. Enjoy, well done

Just watched the vid. The camera work is fine and the narration is par excellence. Cannot wait for the next episode

[bigkev]

Well done Jonesy...enjoy your time in Thredbo Could you tell if the Cobberras got burnt as you passed by?

[Xplora]

Well done Jonesy...enjoy your time in Thredbo Could you tell if the Cobberras got burnt as you passed by?

Most of the Cobberas avoided the last fires. A bit in the western area but more toward Davies Plain.

I heard something about Namadgi being closed again.

[bigkev]

Well done Jonesy...enjoy your time in Thredbo Could you tell if the Cobberras got burnt as you passed by?

Most of the Cobberas avoided the last fires. A bit in the western area but more toward Davies Plain.

I heard something about Namadgi being closed again.

Thanks Xplora

[Anotherjonesy]

Well done Jonesy...enjoy your time in Thredbo Could you tell if the Cobberras got burnt as you passed by?

They were pretty clouded over, but that area seemed pretty good

[Anotherjonesy]

Wow, a few ups and downs to go but all the hard stuff is behind you. Enjoy, well done

Just watched the vid. The camera work is fine and the narration is par excellence. Cannot wait for the next episode

The original idea was to just film as I walked along, just little 5 second moving clips, but it's seemed to have morphed nto a vlog along the way...there's no one else to talk to out there!

Anyway, part 2.

https://youtu.be/BuLauuJfruU

[neilmny]

Wow, a few ups and downs to go but all the hard stuff is behind you. Enjoy, well done

Just watched the vid. The camera work is fine and the narration is par excellence. Cannot wait for the next episode

The original idea was to just film as I walked along, just little 5 second moving clips, but it's seemed to have morphed nto a vlog along the way...there's no one else to talk to out there!

Anyway, part 2.

https://youtu.be/BuLauuJfruU

Ripper youtube videos Jonesy. Can't beat the AAWT armchair style

[badd0g]

Killing it time wise. Good idea to smash out the kms to avoid the cruddy weather.
Just watched the video - so good to see current conditions.
Travel well!

[Anotherjonesy]

I'm glad it's of some value. I like sitting at home on a Sunday arvo having a few beers watching hiking vids, so thought I'd make some no frills one's.

Anyway taking an extra zero today, weather not ideal this afternoon for up the top. Forecast is great after that for the final run , so might as well take the easy option today

[warnesy]

Enjoyed both videos. Not sure it is ever a walk I'll get the time to do in one hit, but i've done quite a bit of the NSW sections, and a little bit of Victoria, so parts bring back memories. Good luck for the final stretch.

[Joynz]

Both videos are great.

I really like that you didn’t overlay any music - so the bird and insect sounds are audible!

[Anotherjonesy]

Yeah I'm not a fan of music unless you completely nail it. Rather hear the Currawongs, the sound of the high country. Along with the flies haha

[crollsurf]

Lot of nice huts coming up but 4 Mile and Happys are now toast after the fires, so not worth the sidetracking to visit

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[Anotherjonesy]

Well I'm done, 30 days in. The 6.5 days since thredbo were mixed . Lots of fire regrowth as expected, unappealing walking with the long grass, but I chose to walk it, although I walked around most of it...

Lost so much weight, wish they had scales here. I was 76 when I left, must be sub 70 now.
Got my aawt yellow marker, certificate, and ice cream from namadji...even if I talked porkies about my last two days route...

I'll do a more detailed post in coming days

[neilmny]

Congratulations Jonesy well done.