Bogong High Plains region tracks

[Lophophaps]

Several routes are mentioned to gain access to the Fainter Fire Track at The Springs Saddle. One goes from the High Plains Road at Cranky Charlie west to Big Hill Road, 12 km from Mount Beauty to the gate at Big Hill Lookout at about 1020 metres altitude. This is the route to the Big Hill Lookout gate:
https://graphhopper.com/maps/?point=-36 ... i%20Aerial

From there it's about 5 km to The Springs Saddle, up to 1350 metres and down to 1230 metres at The Springs Saddle. This is the route:
https://graphhopper.com/maps/?point=-36 ... i%20Aerial

From Big Hill Lookout on the West Kiewa Logging Road to The Springs Saddle the track climbs climbs to 1340 metres and is 7 km.
https://graphhopper.com/maps/?point=-36 ... i%20Aerial

Another way may be the West Kiewa River, south-west from Mount Beauty on Simmonds Creek Road to the Kiewa River West Branch. The river is crossed, no bridge, then up to a gate at about 1000 metres. This is about 2 km from The Springs Saddle.
https://graphhopper.com/maps/?point=-36 ... i%20Aerial

The Spring Saddle Fire Track was mentioned, but I cannot find it and it's not listed at Vicnames
https://maps.land.vic.gov.au/lassi/VicnamesUI.jsp

The best option seems to me to be to drive to the Big Hill Lookout, and from there walk on the Big Hill Fire Track to The Springs, no river crossing, shortest distance and least climbing.

[paidal_chalne_vala]

The West Link track from the West Kiewa River to the West Kiewa Logging road is simply not there any more.
FACT.
So the access from Simmonds Ck. road etc. is not possible to the West Kiewa Logging road and the Spring Saddle track.

As I have said doing the option here:

"The best option seems to me to be to drive to the Big Hill Lookout, and from there walk on the Big Hill Fire Track to The Springs, no river crossing, shortest distance and least climbing"

is not the best way because you climb up up up and then go down down down all for no gain. It is a slog.
I recommend you
Take the West Kiewa logging road from Big Hill Lookout and connect with the Spring Saddle track to reach the Springs Saddle.
If you take a mountain bike you from
Big Hill Lookout then you can cycle around the West Kiewa Logging road with a pack on your back ,lock the bike to a tree and then hike from there to the Spring Saddle .

I have walked these routes in Jan. 2021 and looked for the West link track while in the field. The West Link track was closed after the fires in 2013 and has been abandoned by the forest management authorities.

The Rooftops map of the area ( 2nd ed. Bright to Dartmouth) is the most up to date map you can obtain in hard copy at present.

[paidal_chalne_vala]

Wooly Butt Spur track is NOT THERE anymore. Ignore the Grasshopper map. You will be in a world of pain if you try this route to connect from West Kiewa Logging track to the Big Hill track.

[Lophophaps]

The West Kiewa Logging Road from Big Hill Lookout is mainly flat with a number of undulations, adding about 100 metres to the climb. The last bit is steep, 163 metres height gain per kilometre. Distance 7 km

Big Hill FT has one long steady climb, 60 metres/km, and at 5.6 kilometres it's shorter. A shorter way with less climbing appeals more.

For comparison, from Big River to the top of T Spur is 150 metres/km.

[paidal_chalne_vala]

The West Kiewa Logging Road from Big Hill Lookout is mainly flat with a number of undulations, adding about 100 metres to the climb. The last bit is steep, 163 metres height gain per kilometre. Distance 7 km

Big Hill FT has one long steady climb, 60 metres/km, and at 5.6 kilometres it's shorter. A shorter way with less climbing appeals more.

For comparison, from Big River to the top of T Spur is 150 metres/km.

I have walked both of these routes. I know which one I prefer for all season access to Spring Saddle.

It is via Big Hill lookout( There is not much of a lookout because of those pesky trees blocking the views!) , West Kiewa logging road and The Spring Saddle track to reach the Spring Saddle.

[Baeng72]

Mini trip report, not worth a full post.
To blow out the lockdown cobwebs, did an overnight hike out to Fed Hut via the Razorback with the eldest kid.
I haven't done the Razorback before, and from what you read, it's a prom type footpath, but it's a bit more involved around the knobs that I'd expected.
Suffice to say, some of the cobwebs were blown out.
I've lost a bit of fitness in the last 5 months as I was doing harder walking in May in places like Cobungra Gap and finding it easier. And/Or Maybe because it was colder then so I didn't feel cooked?

Razorback

Feathertop

[bigkev]

Mini trip report, not worth a full post.
To blow out the lockdown cobwebs, did an overnight hike out to Fed Hut via the Razorback with the eldest kid.
I haven't done the Razorback before, and from what you read, it's a prom type footpath, but it's a bit more involved around the knobs that I'd expected.
Suffice to say, some of the cobwebs were blown out.
I've lost a bit of fitness in the last 5 months as I was doing harder walking in May in places like Cobungra Gap and finding it easier. And/Or Maybe because it was colder then so I didn't feel cooked?

IMG_3859.jpg

IMG_3888.jpg

Gravity got stronger while we were locked up Baeng....I did 20 kilometres with almost a thousand metres of climbing over at Mt Buffalo on Saturday and gravity certainly did a job on me

[Baeng72]

Phew! I thought it was reduced exercise and some extra kilos from enjoying a few too many beers that did it! But it was Gravity, I don't have to kick myself.
20Ks with a 1km climbing? I might have to work up to that.
How do you calculate your climbing? I was using my Garmin inReach mini, but not sure if has a cumulative altitude functionaility.
The statistics might be a wrong, apparently altitude on the Razorback maxed out at 2428m, take that Kozsciuzko!

Garmin stats

Capture.JPG (52.64 KiB) Viewed 22190 times

[scroggin]

Well I completed my 4 day jaunt from Bogong Village to Fainters, BHP, Grey Hills and loved it. The section from the start to Fainter south and the Grey Hills back to the car were all new to me, also I took the ridge from Little Plain over to Mount Jaitmathang which I had not done for 20+ years.

A few of things I like to mention are;

I didn't see another soul outside from Mount jaitmathang to below Mt Nelse and even between those two points there were few and far between - considering we just came out of lockdown and it was considered a long weekend I thought there would be more out and about.
There wasn't or I missed the water source 600m from Bogong Jack saddle, which was fine as I was happy to push on and camp on the ridge just south of Fainter North.
Johnston Hut aint what it used to be and I mean that in a good way.
The Grey Hills is a must and the Black Possum Spur despite a few fallen trees and being quite steep is a well defined track.

[Baeng72]

Well I completed my 4 day jaunt from Bogong Village to Fainters, BHP, Grey Hills and loved it. The section from the start to Fainter south and the Grey Hills back to the car were all new to me, also I took the ridge from Little Plain over to Mount Jaitmathang which I had not done for 20+ years.

A few of things I like to mention is;

I didn't see another soul outside from Mount jaitmathang to below Mt Nelse and even between those two points there were few and far between - considering we just came out of lockdown and it was considered a long weekend I thought there would be more out and about.
There wasn't or I missed the water source 600m from Bogong Jack saddle, which was fine as I was happy to push on and camp on the ridge just south of Fainter North.
Johnston Hut aint what it used to be and I mean that in a good way.
The Grey Hills is a must and the Black Possum Spur despite a few fallen trees and being quite steep is a well defined track.

Nice work Scroggin, how was the walk up from Bogong Village to the Fainters? It seems like a long slog.

[scroggin]

It wasn't too bad. I have learnt in my older age that it's Ok to take your time. I tend to keep a steady cadence with shorter steps. So much more efficient for me.

[stry]

It wasn't too bad. I have learnt in my older age that it's Ok to take your time. I tend to keep a steady cadence with shorter steps. So much more efficient for me.

That technique works for me also. Just keep steadily moving along at as slow a speed as is necessary for it to be sustainable.

[Xplora]

It wasn't too bad. I have learnt in my older age that it's Ok to take your time. I tend to keep a steady cadence with shorter steps. So much more efficient for me.

That technique works for me also. Just keep steadily moving along at as slow a speed as is necessary for it to be sustainable.

I like to say 'I am just enjoying the view' when I stop for a breath. Too often we miss the very things we are out there for in the push for a faster time and don't work it out until we are older and are forced to take it slower.

[Baeng72]

It wasn't too bad. I have learnt in my older age that it's Ok to take your time. I tend to keep a steady cadence with shorter steps. So much more efficient for me.

I use the take my time method. I walked 18k in about 9.5 hours (including breaks) in the Grampians on Sunday, so hardly setting records. Lot's of photos were taken.
I was angling for how steep it is (Eskdale spur like or maybe more gentle?). Anyway, it seems like just plodding along will get me up it when I get around to attempting.

[north-north-west]

It wasn't too bad. I have learnt in my older age that it's Ok to take your time. I tend to keep a steady cadence with shorter steps. So much more efficient for me.

That technique works for me also. Just keep steadily moving along at as slow a speed as is necessary for it to be sustainable.

Ditto. Stoppages are only to take photos. Now you know why I take so many ...

[paidal_chalne_vala]

Black possum spur is type 3 fun. :-0 Water was flowing across the track just before Bogong jack saddle. We had no trouble with finding water there and camped there at Bogong jack saddle. Salt camp Creek near Fainter South has never run dry in my experience.
The Grey Hills and Black Possum spur foot tracks have been cleared within the past 24 months. They are easy to follow routes. I take a lot of photos too. I would recommend descending B.P. spur on the last day once you have eaten most of your food. Some of that route is almost vertical and 5 days worth of food in the pack would be quite heavy while doing such a steep slog uphill with no water points en route. Avoid the Grey Hills and B.P. spur when it is hot. Pick a different way back to Bogong village. Spion Kopje fire trail crosses two certain water points once you leave Little Spion Kopje and begin to descend.
Bogong Creek saddle via Mt. Arthur and the Bogong Creek tramway back to Clover Arboretum crosses many water points and offers more shade.

[CraigVIC]

Looking for advice on Bogong from Rocky Valley via t-spur and returning down Quartz. Is this a suited to a 2 night trip? Looking to enjoy myself and not necessarily bust a gut but also have no intention of sitting around at camp either. There seems like a few camps and it could be divided a number of ways?

[Lophophaps]

This is viable as two nights, with a long first day.
1 Rocky Valley Dam, Heathy, Nelses, Ropers, Duane and T Spurs. Camp at the top of T Spur, Camp Valley or Cleve Cole
2 Bogong, Quartz Ridge, Timms. Camp at the top of Whiterock Falls on the north arm or go another 45 minutes to Ropers.
3 Nelses, Rocky Valley Dam.

I'd go that way and get the deeper Big River crossing over. On the first day you need to get to Ropers by about 1 pm, two hours down, and from Big River, about three hours up, plus the crossing. The chain may be down. Except on Bogong there's water in most places. Camping is possible on the true left bank of Big River at T Spur, but it's a bit cramped. Also, after a steep start, T Spur relents, quite pleasant. Going up Duane has never appealed.

[Baeng72]

On the first day you need to get to Ropers by about 1 pm, two hours down, and from Big River, about three hours up, plus the crossing.

It's not dark until 9pm this time of year, you could get away with being there by 4pm if you estimates are correct.

[paidal_chalne_vala]

The trek from Roper's hut to CC hut is tough. It does not look far on the map but it is taxing. Personally I would prefer to do it early in the day and have time to wind down at CC Hut or the T spur/ Long Spur junction campsite and allow time to chilax and rest and recover before dark.
Pick a good weather window for the CC hut to Quartz Ridge section.
Roper's hut campsite is my preferred camping area in that section of the BHP.

[Lophophaps]

I've found Duane to be harder, mainly due to the consistent steepness. This
https://graphhopper.com/maps/?point=-36 ... i%20Aerial
seems to show similar gradients, but Duane is steeper. Also, T Spur keeps on going up and does not lose height.

To do this in three days, one day has to be long, and I'd rather get that out of the way early.

[CraigVIC]

Thanks for the info. The idea of there being a chain assist in place makes the river crossing seem more intimidating rather than less. Is the difficulty easy to judge by looking or is it a bit deceptive?

I won't have any flexibility with the weather, it'll either be suitable or I'll have to cancel and do something else. Is there water at the t spur/long spur junction? It looks like a 1km round trip to the crossing at the Howmans falls track?

[Lophophaps]

This time of year, unless there's a lot of rain, Big River should be about knee deep. This is December from the T Spur side. The tree landed on the track, and there were even bigger ones on Duane Spur.

Big River from T Spur

Walker chain S.jpg (133.92 KiB) Viewed 20749 times

The top of T Spur has a reliable creek and a slightly bumpy but very sheltered spot. The creek is in the background behind the packs. The T Spur track goes left from the pole, and the Camp Valley track is nearly directly behind the pole, contouring into the trees. The fingerboard is just visible.

Top of T Spur

Camp Creek is about 15 minutes away. There are good flats near the Howmans Falls turnoff, but it's a frost hollow. I found flat sites on the north slope above the creek, five minutes uphill.

Camp Creek

One year there was about 100 mm of rain in a day, and Camp Creek looked like this.

Camp Creek in flood

[paidal_chalne_vala]

There is always water at the T spur/ Long Spur junction and flat tent sites there too.I have never seen that creek run dry in my years of walking in the area. Many people are too exhausted to push onto CC hut once they reach the stream at the T spur/ Long Spur track junction on the AAWT.The final push up the T spur is enough for them ....more than enough! . They camp there if the weather is not total rubbish.
The forecast for this Sat. and Sunday looks
bad for mountain areas. I have postponed a walk I was going to do this weekend in the Baw Baw/ AAWT/ Mt. Whitelaw area.

[CraigVIC]

This is viable as two nights, with a long first day.
1 Rocky Valley Dam, Heathy, Nelses, Ropers, Duane and T Spurs. Camp at the top of T Spur, Camp Valley or Cleve Cole
2 Bogong, Quartz Ridge, Timms. Camp at the top of Whiterock Falls on the north arm or go another 45 minutes to Ropers.
3 Nelses, Rocky Valley Dam.

Is there a pad to the top of the falls, there's nothing marked on my map? What are the pros and cons of coming back by the fire trail compared to Grey Hills?

[Lophophaps]

From the bloke in the fine weather Camp Creek pic go back about a metre to the junction, left track to Howmans Falls, and right track to Cleve Cole, about 20 minutes one way for each. The track to Howmans Falls is bit rough in places but it's easy to follow. There's no easy way to get a picture of the falls. At the top is a nice pool, good for a hot day swim.

The 4WD management track and Grey Hills have similar climbing. At the bottom of Quartz Ridge where the foot track meets the 4WD management track, go left and down to Big River, then up. Big River has a good campsite on the south bank and is the last water until Whiterock Falls, but if continuing you may as well get water at Ropers. You can cut the corner to get to the main pole line, east to pole 916, and the creek there is reliable. Stay high - it's a bit swampy. There's also water perhaps 20-30 minutes south on the AAWT, down in the wide valley north of Warby Corner. There are exposed campsites near there.

Grey Hills goes up from where the 4WD management track is met. Around here is the last water for the Grey Hills, which may be scrubby. The next water and campsite is east of Crows Nest, Big River again. Grey Hills comes out at Warby Corner, and does not go to Ropers Hut unless you go north on the pole line for about 40 minutes. By that time you can be most of the way to the next campsite, Edmonsons Hut. In fine weather it's easy to cut the corner from around pole 808 to the Edmonsons track, which has a pole line. Edmonsons is in a small grove of trees a little above the creek.

[paidal_chalne_vala]

The Grey Hills have been cut and cleared by a sub contractor in the past year. I walked them from Spion Kopje to Mt. Arthur in Nov. 2021. It is very up and down and taxing on the knees and compared with Timm's spur it is tougher, wilder and arguably more scenic and remote.
There is no water out on the Grey hills so carrying extra drinking water is very wise.
I have walked the Grey Hills twice since late 2017 and carrying extra water on the easier to follow recently cut and cleared track made for a better experience in Nov. 2021. The Views from the upper section of the Big River Fire track on Timm's spur are good. I plan to do a hike in/ ski in / skin in / multi night BC XC ski trip out there in Sept. 2022 coming in from Bogong Creek tramway and Bogong Creek saddle.
LOPS has stated that the Grey Hills conclude at Warby Corner. That is not entirely accurate. The Spion Kopje Fire trail ( which leads to the sign pointing to trackless scrubby section of the route out to the Crow's Nest ) meets the AAWT on the Big River Fire trail at Warby Corner.
It is very exposed out there with NO TREES and water is only available at some places if you know where to look.
Howman's Falls track is sign posted and the foot pad is obvious in clear weather . As a side trip if you are having a rest day at CC hut then it makes sense to visit the falls esp. on a hot day to bathe in one of the pools. If you are running a schedule using up leg power and daylight while heading for either Roper's hut or Mt Wills hut then I would skip Howman's falls and visit them another time.
Once you are at Warby coner then Roper's hut is about 45 min.s away on foot following the Pole line.
Edmondson's hut is possibly the same distance heading the other way towards Falls Creek ( broadly speaking ). If you see the grove of snow gums and know the spot then you can go cross country to it on foot or on BC XC Skis in winter/ early Spring and avoid rigorously following the 1 km pole line that connects the AAWT with Edmondson's hut.

[CraigVIC]

Sorry, I haven't been very clear. I was wondering about the white rock falls camp, nothing much is indicated on my map.

I have been to Howmans falls. This trip will be the mirror image of my one and only other Bogong trip where I came up the staircase and down eskdale and visited west peak, cleave Cole and Howmans while I was up. So I'm familiar with the middle bit but the rest is totally unknown to me.

[Lophophaps]

PCV is correct, and my words are wrong. The Grey Hills ends near the Crows Nest. I should have said that the Grey Hills route comes out at Warby Corner.

The Whiterock campsite is in the red circle, picture below. One way down to the falls is via the red dashed line. The solid red line is where to cut the corner going to Ropers, and the yellow box is a bit wet.

Whiterock region

Whiterock campsite

This is Big River at Timms Spur.

Big River campsite at Timms

[paidal_chalne_vala]

Leeches and snakes can be an issue at the Big River campsite at the Bottom of Timm's spur. I usually camp at the Old Helipad at Bogong Creek saddle. It is close to a reliable water source near the intentions book at the beginning of the Quartz Ridge walking track.The water flows under the Big River Fire trail through a pipe. It is usually cold and clear and most refreshing. The only issue with camping at the old helipad is that it can become very windy and being in a gap in the range the wind often screams through that gap at the saddle. Packing up in the wind and rain at the Old Helipad can be challenging.
The Quartz ridge is very scenic and not as tough as the Staircase is in terms of toil and effort. However once you leave the tree line on the ascent you are at the mercy of the elements.
This loop route hike that takes in Mt. Bogong and the Northern BHP is on my list to do this green season. I have not done battle with some of these tracks and river crossings for a few years or so it seems.